Suzanne Izzo (izzos@gusun.georgetown.edu)
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:57:48 -0500 (EST)
The latest article by William Jolly on the Chromoskedasic Pseudosolarization
in the Jan/Feb 1999 issue of Photo Techniques finally got me to try the
method. In addition to this article, I have Jolly's first article
(Nov/Dec 1992 Darkroom Techniques) and the two articles in Scientific
American (Nov 1991) by Dominic Man-Kit Lam and others. I also printed
out the class handout Dan Burkholder sent to the List in Nov 1998.
And I hasten to mention, I have read past comments on the technique that
have been posted to the List.
All the sources use Dektol, Kodak S2 Activator, and Kodak S30 Stabilizer.
Each has a somewhat different working technique. I've tried it all ways,
and only with Jolly's 1999 method was I able to get any color (an anemic
pink which turned to tan; the results were the same using the second
developer which he says gives magenta and the one which is supposed to
give orange). All other methods resulted in a black-and-white print.
I did not have Kodabrome which is recommended by Jolly and used by Lam.
Lam also used Kodak Polycontrast and says, "Other brands of material
should work just as well." Burkholder says to use fiber-based paper.
I used both fiber and RC, VC and graded: Freestyle's "Europe's Finest"
VC with 3 1/2 filter, Ilfobrome #3, Ilfospeed RC pearl #4, Brovira Speed
RC glossy #5, Judy's old Brovira fiber (originally #5 which now prints
at about #3).
Dan says his students "made some fine prints." Has anyone else managed
to get results with this method? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Having just put in a big order of paper, I'm not eager to turn around
and buy some Kodabrome. I'll probably put this on the back burner for
now, but I'd like to hear any thoughts from the List.
Thanks for your help.
Suzanne Izzo
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