Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Thu, 18 Feb 1999 19:24:38 -0500 (EST)
> The problem with most bristals (which really means more than one ply) is
> that the plys peal apart when wet. Although I have found one that stays
> together and works nicely for the Pt/Pd process. And wouldn't you know,
> it a SULFITE paper. My notes on it follow.
The Bristol drawing papers I have used (Strathmore, & a fabulous Rives
Bristol, no longer made) were 1-ply. They actually take gum well in the
"kid" finish... in my 1-coat gum phase they were the best. Only, because
that 1 ply was so floppy, if it needed another coat I was dead.
But for what it's worth, here's a footnote: a long long time, maybe 25
years ago, I bought a 1-ply "strathmore Bristol Drawing paper" at Pearl
paint, a stack of it. It sat on the shelf and turned pretty brown. When I
began doing gum I experimented with it and found that just in a *test*
using the 21-step it printed the best of ANY paper, that is, more steps,
smoother tones, better clearing. And that includes the current Strathmore
Bristol drawing paper, which is now pH neutral, archival, & all that jazz.
I was told that the earlier paper was.... like *sulfite* ?? which they
don't make any more & was why it turned brown. I ran out of it for
printing, but still keep some scraps for tests -- sort of a benchmark, how
good an emulsion might look.
Long soaks in water when developing did lighten the darkening some, though
it's still what you might call kindly "ivory." .... whether it will now
darken again is an interesting question... Moot of course since I can't
print on it any more, but it does come to mind...
But Jeff, what is the MAKE of that "artist drawing bristol." Strathmore?
I believe the term alone is not definitive...
Judy
>
> Artist Drawing Bristol - plate finish (#1 Sulfite)
> Excellent quality, depth, and substance.
> Very good detail in print.
> Hard surface gives plenty of time to coat.
> Coating must loose glossy look before blow drying.
>
> It is available from most art supply stores.
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