Carl Weese (cjweese@wtco.net)
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:42:45 -0400
Bill,
You want dense highlights (compared to a negative for silver) and
slightly denser than normal shadows. Simply overexposing for a
bulletproof neg isn't the answer because that doesn't increase *range*
of densities.
The easiest starting point for your 8x10 would be to use Tri-X exposed
at ei 200 or a bit lower, developed in HC110B for 50% to 75% longer than
you normally would for silver printing. In my lab that means 8-9 minutes
at 70 degrees. The negative should be much too contrasty for printing on
normal grade 2 silver paper.
Later on you might want to switch to a pyro developer which will deliver
negs that print well in either silver or platinum, but by far the
easiest combination is TXT/HC110 and they are readily available from any
good photo dealer. Also, there are ways (Ziatype method) to produce
excellent palladium prints from negatives originally intended for silver
printing, but the techniques are a bit tricky and it is again much
easier to learn Pt/Pd printing with negatives meant for the
process.---Carl
Bill Collins wrote:
>
> I will be taking a class in platnium/palladium printing this summer and
> would like to know what kind of negatives print best. My understanding
> is that contrasty, dense negs print well with this process.
>
> I will try to contact the instructor, but this may be difficult since the
> class is offered through a city summer art class program.
>
> The size of the negative is not a problem. I have an 8x10 Kodak 2D and a
> box of FP4 ready to go.
>
> Bill
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Thu Oct 28 1999 - 21:39:31