Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 01:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
On Mon, 12 Jul 1999, Joao Ribeiro wrote:
>
> > I used the SS in two
> > ways... The first method is toning an unfixed print, that's after
> > developing & before fixing, and that would be have to be done by
> > safelight. If you put the unfixed, unstopped print in the light, it would
> > go dark.
>
> But since my plating is gratify color, the highlights will go dark as well
> won't it?
Joao, you've lost me. What is "gratify color."??
> > But since you have the silver halide from the whites of the print, I don't
> > know what you would *bleach.* In fact, as I visualize the operation, if
> > you bleached before fixing you'd have a whole sheet of silver halide and
> > the whole thing would go silver, no picture.
>
> I didn't bleach an unfixed picture but I think it would happen that way, end
> up with noting.
Right, if it's a print that hasn't yet been fixed, you put it directly in
the toner and the white parts plate out -- you then get a black photograph
on a silver background.
> > The other method -- the one I used almost always -- was to take a
> > finished, fixed, black & white print, and bleach the black (silver) back
> > to silver halide with the CB-6 (or whatever), then plate that to silver
> > with the SS toner.
>
> That's what I tried, but to get a good plating I had to go through the
> operation 3 times and the plating just showed after the print was dry
Sometimes you don't see the plating until it's dry. Did you try drying it
after the first toning? Assuming all your solutions were OK, I don't know
why it took 3 times. My experience was that the only time I had to do it
more than once was when I simply screwed up the first time, usually trying
to use exhausted toner. What dilution of toner did you use? Did you bleach
completely the first time?
> > Since that is already a fixed print, no need to work by safelight. I
> > suppose if you put it under an EXTREMELY strong light before putting in
> > the toner, you might darken the silver halide a bit before the actual
> > plating, but that would have to be like 6 suns -- let's say I've never
> > seen it happen.
>
> What would be the advantage of that operation?If it is just to dark the print
> a little, a very diluted dektol would do it, wouldn't it
>
I can't give an explanation.... I found one day by trying it that adding
some used Dektol to the toner seemed to make it tone more smoothly. Maybe
there was some silver in the Dektol which aided physical development?
(That's what Jolly says helps in Sabatier.)
> > The mottling is generally from pouring the toner onto the image surface,
> > and/or having the print back touching the tray bottom -- or that's been my
> > experience. If mottling persists, try adding dilute old Dektol to the
> > toner (maybe 1/3) that seems to help ease the plating. And you also want
> > to agitate vigorously when the toner first hits it. (It's hard to
> > remember to describe each little twist of something you do on auto pilot.
> > Did I say that?)
> >
>
> I'll try that
> I got neutral highlights, slightly purple sometimes
And they stayed purple when the print was dry? That's nice!
Judy
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