Re: Epson negs


Gregory Parkinson (glp@panix.com)
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:55:25 -0500


At 8:45 PM -0600 11/9/99, Ken Carney wrote:
>Nick:
>
>After a lapse of a couple of years, I am getting back into palladium
>printing. I had the first edition of Dan Burkholder's book, and just got
>the second edition. I recommend it highly. There are parts that have so
>far escaped me, such as the desktop correction curves, but overall the book
>has more creative ideas per ounce than anything I've seen.

I hate to criticize the book because it has so much information not
presented anywhere else, but it's not very well laid out - I found
that I had to read it 3 times just to assemble all the inter-related parts
into a coherent whole and it's now got lots of post-its with index notes
sticking out of it.

>I have managed
>to get some fairly decent prints with negatives printed on Burlington "high
>definition" transparency material, using the Epson EX setting for photo
>quality inkjet paper.

I tried printing on Luminos transparency film but got the dreaded Epson
roller effect. I haven't looked farther into disabling the rollers (I just
got the printer!)

> It never seems to dry, so I use a .002" mylar
>spacer. After the image is inverted, it is colorized with C33, M43, Y100,
>K35. I will adjust this, as the negative prints with too much contrast,
>even though no contrast agent is used.

 From my understanding, the contrast is reduced by using the desktop
correction curves. They certainly reduced the contrast in mine when
I used them.

My experience: I'm taking a class in alternative printing processes at the
School of Visual Arts in NYC. I didn't have the computer set up until about
1/3 through the class so the first time I was able to use digital negs was
for the first gum class. I had the problem with the Luminos transparency
paper so I printed on Epson Photo Quality Ink Jet paper and oiled them
with peanut oil.

It seems that gum printing is enough of an adventure on its own without
adding in additional variables, so what I could tell was that the paper
negative that I didn't use the contrast-flattening curve on and that I
printed using the reddish color as defined in the color table that came with
Burkholder's book (the CD - another reason to buy the book) worked the
best. Extremely well, actually, with the same exposure time as the film
negs that other people were using.

We're doing Kallitypes this week. I'll post my experience afterwards.

Greg



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