FotoDave@aol.com
Thu, 21 Oct 1999 20:19:04 -0400 (EDT)
> This is my first post to the list.
Hi Sato, welcome to the list!
> I have been trying to direct-dupe/enlarge my 6x7 negs over the last few
> months,
> using Camera Speed Dupe film which I bought from Freestyle several months
> ago.
>
> -I know this film is not a real continuous-tone film but rather a lith
film.
Duplicating film is not really a lith film. It is continous-tone, but as the
goal is to DUPLICATE (note: not COPY) the original negative, it is made to be
developed to full and gives a gamma of 1.0, so it works more or less like
printing paper. Contrast can be altered a little by development but not much.
Since it is made for full development, it develops quickly, hence it might
give the impression of similarity with lith film.
> I usually use highly dilluted PQ developer such as Ilford Multigrade(1:19
or
> more)
What is the "normal" dilution for this developer for paper? If you are using
high dilution, the film is very prone to streaking and mottling. There is an
explanation of this in PFP journal, issue #2.
> and stop and fix just as anyone does. But there appears ugly ghost streaks
> on high density areas very often.
What kind of agitation do you use? When I started my test with diluted
Dektol, I found that even the dripping of the solution when you move from one
tray to another could cause streaking. This is because diluted developer is
about the same active (in terms of pH but is very low in developing agent).
I am not familiar with the PQ developer that you are using, but if it is a
paper developer and you simply dilute it, the control will be difficult. You
need a developer that is slow acting both in the highlight and the shadow
area. Please see my other post on this.
Dave S
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