From: Vrueh, G.J. de (G.J.de.Vrueh@pve.agro.nl)
Date: 04/19/00-01:01:40 AM Z
Hello Mike,
A simular problem is often heard when people are using sepia toner (for
instance from kodak). Usualy the problem is that people are bleaching to
long. when you bleach until the shadows are (almost)gone (fully bleached
picture) then after toning in toner solution you will have a toned picture
but you will have lost the deep shadows.
When you bleach until only the highlights and the mid tones are bleached and
(after washing) then tone you will have far less loss of D-max but stil have
a toned picture (the color does not show in the shadows but mosty in the
highlights and mid tones).
It is even possible to achieve a split tone by only bleaching the
highlights.
I do not say this may be the solution for your problem with the cyanotype
but is sure sounds the same as the problems discribed above.
Greetings
Gerard de Vrueh
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: MIKENPHOTO@aol.com [mailto:MIKENPHOTO@aol.com]
Verzonden: woensdag 19 april 2000 5:04
Aan: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Onderwerp: cyanotype toning
Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list and hopeful someone out there can give me a
little advise. I'm trying to tone cyanotypes black. The formula I have calls
for a sodium carbonate bleaching then "redevelopment" in gallic acid and a
touch of pyro. This gives the print a nice color but no DMax. What was
solid,
dense blue before toning becomes no darker than zone 5 afterward. Does
anyone
have a formula that works and yet allows for a good dmax. Thanks
Mike
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