From: Robert W. Schramm (schrammrus@hotmail.com)
Date: 12/04/00-08:00:52 PM Z
James,
Sorry to take so long to answer.
As I recall, the printed literature like "Keepers of Light" recommends
25 gms of sodium thiosulfate per 500 cc water and a fixing time of 5
minutes. I usually use 20 gms. per 1000 cc and a fixing time of 2 minutes. I
use kodak Hypo Clear or equivalent and wash, wash, wash.
Almost any paper will work as well as natural cloth like cotton.
I have a big box of Cranes Cover (platinotype) so I use that a lot
but I have used Fabriano Artistico and Uno, Rives BFK, Strathmore
as well as some handmade papers. You will get different effects and
the exposure time will be different. Try different papers until you
get one you like. If you want a platinum-like look, use a hot press
paper. Cold press papers will give you more of an impressionistic
effect.
The sensitizer keeps well. If mold grows in it, just strain it
through a coffee filter.
One more tip. Coat under a 15 watt incandescent white light so
you can see what you are doing. Dry in the dark.
Best wishes,
Bob Schramm
>From: James Young <jamiehy@globaldialog.com>
>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Re: Palladium
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 22:57:26 -0600
>
>>Robert,
>>
>>
>>> Kallitype in some forms does tend to be difficult but one version,
>>> namely, Vandyke brown is fairly easy. It is a simple process with
>>> a tonal range similar to platinum. You can use the same negatives
>>> as you would with platinum and it is a lot less expensive. The only
>>> real problem with it involves fixing. All the printed literature
>>> suggests a concentration of sodium thiosulfate that is to great and
>>> a fixing time that is too long.
>>
>>I 've read that sodium carbonate may be added to rapid fix to produce an
>>very alkaline fixer. Also do you recommend Perma Wash for clearing.
>>
>>> I have never had a problem clearing VDB and
>>> I have some pretty old prints that show no sign of fading.
>>> Also you can gold tone it useing a formula for POP or salt prints.
>>> I believe that someone on the list suggested selenium toner but I
>>> have no experience with that.
>>>
>>
>>> There have been several great articles in the PFJ on VDB so I would
>>> suggest reading or rereading those since the info is more accurate
>>> than you will find in hardback literature.
>>>
>>> I used to start my students with cyanotype and more them to VDB
>>> before they tried gum or platinum. Never had any problems other than
>>> the usual student laziness and ennui.
>>>
>>
>>Do you have a paper you might recommend?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Don Bryant
>
>I've been using "AWB drawing and framing" paper with great luck. It also
>comes
>in 60" x 12 yard rolls as well for really big negatives.
> Jamie Young
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