From: Jeffrey D. Mathias (jeffrey.d.mathias@worldnet.att.net)
Date: 06/03/00-04:29:26 AM Z
Carl Weese wrote:
> ... A Pt/Pd print
> will not show the same shadow detail as a silver print from the same
> negative. ...
And this does depend on how it is printed. Pt/Pd will discern much more
subtle differences in tones and textures while a g. silver print will
have better resolution and wider dynamic tonal range. The Pt/Pd print
will have better shadow detail in upper Zone III and Zone IV so
important detail should not be placed below. One may say that the g.
silver print will have darker, blacker shadow detail. One must make a
decision as to how they wish their final image to look. For example, I
seriously doubt that an Ansel Adams' landscape would look as good in
Pt/Pd (not enough dynamic tone range).
> ... a bit of genuine fog doesn't concern me--it merely adjusts the
> reflectance of the paper base slightly lower.
This is an important tool. Especially when working with 100% Pd and XII
Zones, the highlights will have some better separation with a little fog
either by white exposure or by chemical means. An important
consideration is that the fog reduces the tonal dynamic range by
reducing the upper limit. This is NOT the same as a contrast change.
One thing to watch out for is that a fogging will tend to change the
color to a warmer value. Lowering the upper value and warming color can
also be accomplished by changing papers, but without the other effects
of fogging. It is difficult to change the color to a more neutral or
cooler value or to increase the upper tonal value with a different paper
(some things that are both easier to do with fabric).
Controlling the dynamic range can be very effective. For example George
Tice (in the seventies) printed much work with a very restricted tonal
dynamic range. I prefer a wider range for most of my work, but not that
of g. silver.
-----
To consolodate posts:
John Richardson wrote:
> ... Check before you speak. I have tried these tests in EDTA, phosphoric, and
> Kodak hypo clear, 3 baths at 5 minutes each. If I develop a print for
> only 1 minute then the coated but masked area of the paper does not
> clear. That area looks orange when it is removed from the developer.
> When I develop for a full two minutes the orange color is greatly reduced
> (almost not visible), and it goes away immediately upon entering the first
> clearing bath.
I have checked. One minute development should be plenty. Use a two
minute water bath (rinse) before going into clearing baths. The water
bath should remove most of the "orange". If this material is washed off
into the developer, it will drive the developer to cause fog sooner.
Remember just because the "orange" has gone away does not mean that the
print has been completely cleared.
-- Jeffrey D. Mathias http://home.att.net/~jeffrey.d.mathias/
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