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RE: fading Ware's cyanotypes

Randall & Bob -
I tested the water and came up with a tentative 5.5 or so - certainly not 
above neutral.
It sounds like I cleared too much.  I guess I'm used to really long wash 
times, so I'll keep that in mind and reduce it to the minimum required to 
clear the highlights.

I still don't know what kind of paper I'm using but it certainly wasn't 
cheap stuff, although I also don't think it was buffered. I have to look at 
the receipt to see what I bought - it was originally intended for another 
project but I thought it might look good in cyanotype.

So, I'll try cheap paper, and a shorter wash time!  Thanks for the suggestions.
Kathryn

At 02:48 PM 3/14/00 +0000, you wrote:

>        In reply to Kathryn's query a few points spring to mind.
>        I haven't used Mike's cyan process although we used a very fine 
> example of it in "Spirits of Salts".
>        With Herschel cyans we find it best to use cheap machine made 
> cartridge paper as contains more               acid and all sorts of 
> other crap. The cheaper and nastier the paper the better.This could also 
> be said               for pt/pd but most people prefer good quality paper 
> for this and will tend to use Arches platine or some Fabrianos or Buxton 
> when it comes back.Politically correct acid free buffered paper is not a 
> good idea.
>Your water supply is also important. A lot of our water here comes off 
>chalk hills. It clogs up our water pipes but imparts a subtle turquoise 
>tone to our cyans. If you print on fabric, wash it in gentle soap 
>products, not in standard washing powders. The bleach in them will destroy 
>your image.
>Finally look at your washing times. Prolonged washing can take out the 
>blue colour.The print is washed when the yellow stain in the highlights 
>disappears. Then give it 30 seconds in a very dilute solution of hydrogen 
>peroxide a brief rinse in cold water and dry.
>I always feel that we attach too much reverence to alt processes. After 
>all they are only bits of paper which are infinitely reproducible. Slap it 
>on the paper, dry it, put it in the sun and wash it.
>What is important is the original camera negative. That was there when the 
>photo was taken and you can't bring back time.
>P.S. I mis-read someone else's note about Chuck Close. I thought it said 
>that Chuck was "reviving dag/types from obscenity". What a silly mistake. 
>But more on this later in terms of Franco/British hostility.
><<
>Hoping someone can help with this - I did a couple of Ware's version
>cyanotypes this weekend, but after spending 15 minutes or so in a water
>bath, they'd fading to a mere shadow of themselves, in a grey-slate tone.
>
>What could this be caused by?  I just started a new paper (can't remember
>the name right now) but from previous threads last fall I am wondering if
>it's the water.  I haven't checked the pH of the water yet - should I be
>looking for acid or akaline?  Or was it just the length of the water bath?
>Kathryn Garrison
>
>
>