Re: Cyanotype Questions

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From: Bob Parker (photobob124@yahoo.com)
Date: 05/07/00-08:32:52 PM Z


Charlie,
Thanks for your suggestion. I will get Mike Ware's
book adn try HCL. I used B&S formulation for the
trial I mentioned in my first post and followed the
instructions that went with it. Maybe the instructions
are a bit on the thin side. I plan to use Formulary
New and Traditional cyanotype formulas next weekend or
the week after. I'll keep the list posted.
Thanks,
bob

--- CCBaggett@aol.com wrote:
> Bob,
> I am using Mike Ware's cyanotype formula
> chemistry to 'proof' negatives
> from a Zero 2000 pinhole camera (120 rollfilm,
> 6cmx6cm) I got from the
> Pinhole Resource- a neat camera. I'm using Crane's
> Platinotype I got from
> B+S. I'm not having any problems. The intensity of
> blue is very good. After
> exposure, I put the print into a weak solution of
> hydrochloric acid (10ml in
> 1liter of water) for 30 seconds to 'set' the color
> as per Mike's instructions
> in his book. Then I wash in my vertical archival
> print washer for 20 minutes.
> I believe I got the chemicals from the
> Photographer's Formulary and mixed
> them myself. My sensitizer solution is now easily 6
> months old. The
> Hydrochloric acid came from them as well and is a
> 31% solution. I have Mike's
> book, which I highly recommend. I think I ordered it
> from Amazon.com. Also, I
> am not sizing the paper or using Tween. Hope this
> helps. Cheers. Charlie
>
>
> In a message dated 5/7/00 1:57:57 AM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> photobob124@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Question # 1: I tried printing a 6x9 glass negon
> Cranes Platinotype with the New Cyanotype process
> yesterday adn ran into some problems. First of
> all, I
> came to realize my unopened chemistry had turned
> greeen. I had it for well over a year. Second,
> despite the fact that the pre-washed prints had
> great
> blue color, the blue proceeded to wash out of the
> print, bleed, and stain highlights. With the the
> New
> Cyanotpye Formula, I used 1 drop Tween 20 and 1
> drop
> Citric acid (as per insrtructions with the B&S
> purchase). The print was brush coated and washed
> for
> 15 minutes in several trays sitting water. The
> bleeding started alomst immediately. By the way
> Simili Japon 130 gm was a heavy bleeder. I really
> like
> it for Platinum/Palladium printing, but it does not
> apear to be a contender for Cyanotype based on this
> recent expereince.
>
> 2. I plan to try some other papers such as
> Bienfang
> 360, Fabriano Uno, and Cranes Prchment Wove. Any
> other paper sugestions???
>
> 3. A friend suggested using spray starch to
> increase
> sizing of the platinotype and other papers to
> decrease
> bleeding, Any thoughts???
>
> 4. Finally, Does anyone know where I can obtan a
> copy
> of Mike Ware's book on Cyanotypes???
>
> Thanks to all. The information posted on this list
> has been invaluable and I appreciate everyone's
> expertise and expereince sharing.
>
> Bob Parker
>
> __________________________________________________
>

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