From: Nick Frazier (giganerd@mindspring.com)
Date: 12/01/01-10:55:20 AM Z
I am not a conservator, but I am a framer. Someone asked about references -
one set of standards that framers and conservators follow is those put forth
by the Library of Congress. General information can be found at
http://lcweb.loc.gov/preserv/.
I would recommend a non-adhesive mounting process for overmatted
photographs. For small photos (less than, say 16x20) that would be
conservation Mylar corners. For larger or heavier pieces, mounting strips
that support the edges instead of the corners.
Just one opinion,
Nick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Kiss [mailto:bobkiss@caribsurf.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 5:12 AM
> To: ALT PHO PROC.
> Subject: MOUNTING
>
>
> DEAR LIST,
> As Paul mentioned the boards should be 100% cotton. Don't be
> fooled by
> the "acid free" label...it may still have lignin if it isn't a
> cotton, silk
> or rice product. Lignin attacks photos.
> The adhesive in tapes can contain sulfur compounds, some of which are
> anathema to photographs of any form. Light Impressions in Rochester N.Y.
> (among others) sells many archival products including 100% cotton archival
> museum boards and archival tapes for hinging.
> Hinging to the back of the window over matte (100% cotton museum) and
> backing with a flat, un-attached, piece of the same material is
> the standard
> museum practice. The major problem with dry mounting is that boards are
> often damaged, eaten by insects, stained, etc. Unless you have used the
> "releasable" dry mount tissue, it is VERY difficult to unmount.
> I posted the following before but will repeat here; My
> acquaintance and
> photo-archivist, Jose Orraca answered the "Should I dry mount?" question
> with the ironic response, "Please do...then in a few years people
> will come
> to me and pay me lots of money to remove and replace the degenerated
> mattes!!!" From this I deduced that sticking (pun intended) to
> hinging is
> the best bet...IMHO
> CHEERS!
> BOB KISS
>
>
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