From: Sarah Van Keuren (svk@steuber.com)
Date: 01/26/01-10:45:03 PM Z
Dick, here is some info regarding Dan's book that I copied from his web
site:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Making Digital Negatives for Contact Printing
©1999 Bladed Iris Press
350 pages, 160 illustrations
Includes CD (Mac and Windows) and Color Calibration Print.
Wiro-binding lets the book lie flat as you read and work. Now with a
wraparound cover that provides a spine so you can see the s title on your
bookshelf!
$34.95 plus $6.50 for Priority Mail (23 days) shipping. Texas residents
please add $2.88 sales tax.
45 day shipping to many overseas destinations for $27.00. Please e-mail for
overseas shipping quotes.
ISBN 0-9649638-6-8
I found his site by doing a search with his name and the title of the book.
The colorized gray scale turns gray tones into densities of orange merging
into black. Printing in color makes for smoother tones. Another of Dan's
ways of making negatives is by color indexing. This also uses shades of
orange but no black.
Sarah
> Good Day,
>
> Sarah, I am not familiar with Dan Burkholder's "colorized grayscale method"
that
> you mentioned in your recent post. Where can I find more information on this
> method (-s) or can you elaborate on the process for the rest of us? Since,
I'm
> sure that there are others on the list that may be interested in experimenting
> with this technique. Thanks in advance.
>
> Dick Pollard
> pollard@gte.net
>
> Sarah Van Keuren wrote:
>
>> >>Judy, I am printing desktop negatives on inkjet acetate at 1440dpi, using
an
>> >>Epson 1200 printer. I use Dan Burkholder's colorized grayscale method to
get
>> >>a negative with orange-black tones.* Even after drying such an inkjet
>> >>negative overnight it can remain tacky and if sandwiched against clear
>> >>acetate can make blobby patterns that print.
>> >
>> > In the book, Dan also suggests using paper to avoid the tackiness problem.
>> > I assume you've tried that but decided that acetate is better than paper
>> > for some reason. I wonder if you could elaborate on your preference for
>> > acetate.
>> >
>> > --shannon
>>
>> Initially I made paper and acetate negatives, and printed the same scanned
>> pinhole fragment from all of them. One paper negative was transparentized
>> with oil, one was not. Like Judy, I missed being able to register the paper
>> negatives by eye but I can imagine relying on registration marks in the
>> arrangement Judy suggests, I suppose. Also I thought that I missed a
>> complete range of blue to its DMax with the paper negatives, perhaps due to
>> inadequate exposure. However, I have not yet tried the paper negatives with
>> gum which has a much shorter tonal range to begin with and doesn't take as
>> long to expose as cyanotype. Another reason I've used acetate is that I've
>> been making digital masks that I sandwich with my original pinhole negative
>> and it is easier to register by eye than to attach the pinhole negative to
>> an inch of extra material all the way around.
>>
>> The more I think about it, the more I realize that I haven't given paper
>> negatives enough of a chance. Certainly they are much less expensive! This
>> spring I will work with them and let you know how I do. Maybe you can let me
>> know your results.
>>
>> Sarah
>
>
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