Re: what is a normal subject brightness range?

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Smieglitz@aol.com
Date: 07/18/01-02:15:00 PM Z


Hi Shannon,

You might also want to check out "The New Zone System Manual" by White,
Zakia, and Lorenz if you are getting into zone system stuff. They discuss
"bi-directional contrast control" among other things. I also think you'll
find a wide variety of "normal" interpretations if you read several zone
system texts or talk to different practitioners. Some use 9, 10, or 11 zones
for "normal" according to how they visualize things. This affects the
interpretation of the "normal" SBR practically.

The key point of the zone system, which in my opinion is the most overlooked,
is the "previsualization" aspect. The specific density numbers and graphs
can only guide you. As an example, I typically try to get a Ilord g-bar
gradient value of .68 for my normal negatives. In zone system terms this
would be an expansion which many would call N+1 1/2 or so. My normal
negatives are very dense compared to others' and yet most people also think I
like lower contrast prints (which I do). So the system is adaptable to
individual visions and methods and you are probably better off using it as a
guide rather than dogma. A lot of people get hung up on the numbers and
testing. The numbers are going to vary between individuals, so approach the
whole thing with an open mind rather than trying to match the values given in
the texts. Shooting gray targets is a lot different than what you experience
in actual shooting and what looks good on the graphs may not look good on the
print.

Before I get flamed here, let me state that the *process* of zone system
testing is very worthwhile and you'll learn alot from the discipline.
However, your results may lead you down a different path than others take,
especially if you choose to use long-scale alternative processes rather than
silver-gelatin. I think you'll discover that many Pt/Pd printers using the
zone system may actually be considering what's going on in zones I, II, X,
XI, and XII while silver printers may only be looking at zones III and VII or
thereabouts for their important subject details.

Bottom line: look at some scenes you consider "normal" for your way of
shooting and figure out the tones/zones in which you want to reproduce the
details. Then take a couple of meter readings for the important shadow and
highlight detail areas and take some good notes. Fit that range into your
printing material.

Although I've don't recall reading this anywhere in regard to zone system
testing, the *very first thing* I would do (before even exposing any film
test) is take a Stouffer 21-step density wedge and run a test to determine
the printing range of the paper you will be using. See how many steps (and
thus the density range) the paper will handle and then begin film testing
with the aim of fitting your "normal" scene onto the "normal" paper. Won't
do you any good if your tested-by-the-book perfect zone IX has a net density
of 1.25 but the paper shows white occurs at a net density of 1.50 (your
prints will look gray and flat).

Hope this helps,

Joe


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