From: Rocky (rocky@pdq.net)
Date: 07/21/01-09:25:28 PM Z
Seems like soaking in a tray then loading into a drum would be risky. Film
would be softer and more prone to scratches. Right? And all in the dark.
I do the presoak in the drum. All films 3 minutes. Works for me.
Just an observation.
Rocky
Houston
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Portale" <jportale@gci-net.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: bromide drag
> A simple way to help eliminate bromide drag in tube is to increase the
> amount of developer. If you are currently using 6 ounces, increase it to
12.
> The idea is to really flood the image area with developer. The more fluid
> you have in the drum, the greater the sloshing around that will happen. It
> is the turbulence of the developer moving around that helps with the
bromide
> drag. Also, if you are using one of the early motor bases, that doesn't
> change direction or has an eccentric drive wheel that rocks the tube
during
> rotation, simply pick the off the base and turn it around ever couple of
> minutes or so. This is a trick that I picked up from back in the good old
> days when my darkroom was a hall closet.
>
> Additionally, pre-soaking the film in tubes is critical. As I outlined in
> an earlier email, place the film in a tray of water for a couple of
minutes,
> then fill the tube with water at developing temp, slid the film in, attach
> lid, dump the water, add more pre-soak water and rotate on the base.
> Someone off list accused me of being water wasteful and essentially raping
> and pillaging the environment with this technique. I live in a desert and
> water is precious. But the cost benefit analysis begs, is a little
> conservation worth your negative? You can save more water by turning off
> the shower while soaping up than you will use in this technique.
>
> Must go now and start the grill, we are having Pygmy Owl for dinner.
(Sorry,
> inside joke)
>
> Joe Portale
> Tucson, AZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Weese" <cweese@earthlink.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: bromide drag
>
>
> > Sandy (if you're receiving)
> >
> > I've been thinking about the print drum streak problem with staining
> > formulas. I've gotten excellent negs without streaks, but also enough
with
> > streaks to avoid the technique. Tray development works fine anyhow, but
> for
> > those who have good reasons to prefer rotary processing...
> >
> > You mentioned not using an after-soak. How do you wash--in the drum or
out
> > and in a tray or washer? What I'm wondering is whether the streaking
I've
> > seen may be *only* in the stain, not the development, and so occured
> during
> > after-soak or wash. That would mean that drum rib streaks might not
happen
> > as long as the film is removed from the drum after the fix and given any
> > further treatments in a tray. I'm much too busy with current work to run
a
> > test on this but experience of list members might hint at an answer.
BTW,
> > there's a completely different bromide drag problem with regular
> > non-staining developers. D-76 (ID-11 should be the same) is the only
> > standard developer I've seen that doesn't cause bromide drag streaking
> when
> > processing large film sheets in print drums.---Carl
> > --
> > web site with picture galleries
> > and workshop information at:
> >
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~cweese/
> >
> > ----------
> > >From: Sandy King <sanking@hubcap.clemson.edu>
> > >To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > >Subject: bromide drag
> > >Date: Fri, Jul 20, 2001, 10:02 AM
> > >
> >
> > > My understanding is that the Jobo rotation is such that it imparts
> > > not only a horizontal rotation to the developing tubes but that the
> > > tubes also oscillate on a vertical axis enough to eliminate the
> > > effects of bromide drag. So, in short I think you have nothing to
> > > worry about in this regards.
> > >
> > > As film develops bromide is released from the emulsion. If the
> > > rotation of agitation is only in one direction ( or around a central
> > > axis) the excess bromide produced locally will produce uneven
> > > development, usually streaks of greater density with rotation
> > > processing, around this area. Vigorous agitation breaks up the local
> > > concentration of bromide and distributes it over the entire surface
> > > of the film.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Sandy King
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >> >Sandy King wrote:
> > >>
> > >>>Also, when developing film on motor bases like the >Beseler or
> > >>>Unicolor bases you should remove the tube >from the motor every
> > >>>couple of minutes and give it >about 10-15 seconds of up and down
> > >>>agitation, >otherwise the constant agitation fore and aft
> > >>>will >cause bromide drag.
> > >>
> > >>Sandy,
> > >>
> > >>Perhaps this has been discussed earlier. Can you explain what
> > >>bromide drag is? I use a Jobo CPP-2 which rotates in one direction
> > >>about 1 and a half turns, then stops and rotates in the other
> > >>direction about 1 and a half turns and repeats the cycle. Would
> > >>this action help to eliminate bromide drag? I don't think I have
> > >>ever had a problem with a negative that would have been
> > >>related to something like bromide drag. But I would like to
> > >>understand the issue better.
> > >>
> > >>Jim
> > >
> > >
>
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