Re: Experience with 20X24 format

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From: Sandy King (sanking@CLEMSON.EDU)
Date: 11/29/01-05:50:38 AM Z


As corrected in an earlier message, yes, I mean vertical sideways
agitations for 10-15 seconds every 1-2 minutes.

I used two liters of Pyrocat 2:2:100 solution. I have not tested FP4+
with ABC+ so don't know what the best dilution would be for it, but
am guessing 1:2:75.

Sandy King

>Sandy,
>Many thanks for the information. I will give the Rollo pyro a try.
>I'll also try your agitation method: you mean 10-15 seconds, don't you? Sort
>of like inversion agitation of a stainless steel roll tank?
>Do you recall how much Rollo solution you were putting in the Jobo 20X24
>drum?
>Thanks, Neal
>
>> From: Sandy King <sanking@clemson.edu>
>> Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>> Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 23:35:16 -0500
>> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>> Subject: Re: Experience with 20X24 format
>>
>> Hi Neal,
>>
>> I look forward to hearing more about your work with the 20X24.
>>
>>
>> Yes, I was very surprised that the 450mm Nikkor covered so well. It
>> even allowed some movement when focused at about 25 feet. The
>> diagonal of 20X24 is about 30 inches, so the Nikkor-M, which is
>> 17.75" in focal length, is .58 of 30, so the correlation would be
>> more to a 20-21" lens than a 24".
>>
>> I develop all of my large film (7X17, 12X20, and now 20X24) in print
>> drums with either Pyrocat-HD or ABC+ (Rollo Pyro) and have never had
>> any problems. I pre-soak most of the time (in the drum) for about 5
>> minutes but even on the times when I did not pre-soak I saw no
>> streaking or staining. I would avoid PMK, however, because in the
>> past I did see some streaking with PMK and rotary processing. The
>> film that I developed after the recent experience with the 20X24 was
>> FP4+. It was developed in a Jobo 20X24 print drum on a Unicolor motor
>> base with Pyrocat_HD and the negatives were perfect.
>>
>> When processing in print drums I do follow an agitation method that I
>> would highly recommend. Once every 1-2 minutes, depending on time of
>> development lift the drum off the motor base and agitate vertically
>> for 10-15 minutes. If you don't do this you may get bromide drag from
>> the laminar flow of the developer.
>>
>> Sandy King
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Dear Sandy,
>>> Your account has inspired me to borrow a friend's 20X24, for a project I've
>>> been working on, photographing squatter settlements in Manila. I
>>>also have a
>>> 450mm Nikkor-M and was pleasantly surprised to hear that it covers the
>>> format! I am wondering how wide this lens ends up being on 20X24, something
>>> like a 24mm in 35mm?
>>> How did you process your film? I was thinking of using Rollo-pyro in a Jobo
>>> 20X24 print drum, but am concerned about film streaks that I've heard occur
>>> with the big print drums. Given the high cost of the film and the fact that
>>> I only have one film holder, I don't want to lose film in the processing
>>> stage so I'm thinking the safer alternative is a regular non-staining
>>> developer that isn't so streak-sensitive. Its just that the pyro gives me
>>> such delicate tonality in the sky. Anyone's experience developing this
>>> format would be appreciated.
>>> Thanks in advance, Neal
>>>
>>>> From: Sandy King <sanking@clemson.edu>
>>>> Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>>>> Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:51:46 -0500
>>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>>>> Subject: Experience with 20X24 format
>>>>
>>>> Hi folks,
>>>>
>>>> In this day of digital equipment I suspect that most of you will
>>>> consider that the use of a 20X24" format camera is "alternative"
>>>> photography. Which gives me justification to post the following
>>>> information.
>>>>
>>>> Yesterday, with the aid of Sam Wang, I took a real live 20X24" camera
>>>> into the field and made four negatives, using the FP4+ like film from
>>>> PhotoWarehouse. Sam's help was invaluable because the camera, which
>>>> is a home-made field camera after the Nagaoka, weighs about 50 pounds
>>>> and it can be something of a bear to get on the tripod. I was pleased
>>>> to find that my Manfrotto 3036 tripod and 3039 head, though not rated
> >>> for this weight, supported the camera very well.
>>>>
>>>> I used three lenses for the four negatives, including a 480mm Dagor
>>>> and a 450mm Nikkor-M and was really surprised to find out that the
>>>> Nikkor-M covered the format and even allowed for a bit of movement.
>>>>
>>>> The negatives were developed in Pyrocat-HD for 15 minutes, based on a
>>>> scene with a SBR of about 5. The only problem I had was a small light
>>>> leak caused by movement of the holders on re-insertion of the dark
>>>> slide after exposure. Actually, what I did was insert the slide
>>>> between the camera and holder, thus pushing the holder slightly out
>>>> and allowing light to pass. Silly thing to do but on the vertical the
>>>> top of the holder was a foot over the top of my head and the
>>>> insertion point thus not visible.
>>>>
>>>> Sandy King
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>

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