From: Neal Oshima (noshima@evoserve.com)
Date: 11/29/01-03:52:23 AM Z
Sandy,
Many thanks for the information. I will give the Rollo pyro a try.
I'll also try your agitation method: you mean 10-15 seconds, don't you? Sort
of like inversion agitation of a stainless steel roll tank?
Do you recall how much Rollo solution you were putting in the Jobo 20X24
drum?
Thanks, Neal
> From: Sandy King <sanking@clemson.edu>
> Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 23:35:16 -0500
> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: Experience with 20X24 format
>
> Hi Neal,
>
> I look forward to hearing more about your work with the 20X24.
>
>
> Yes, I was very surprised that the 450mm Nikkor covered so well. It
> even allowed some movement when focused at about 25 feet. The
> diagonal of 20X24 is about 30 inches, so the Nikkor-M, which is
> 17.75" in focal length, is .58 of 30, so the correlation would be
> more to a 20-21" lens than a 24".
>
> I develop all of my large film (7X17, 12X20, and now 20X24) in print
> drums with either Pyrocat-HD or ABC+ (Rollo Pyro) and have never had
> any problems. I pre-soak most of the time (in the drum) for about 5
> minutes but even on the times when I did not pre-soak I saw no
> streaking or staining. I would avoid PMK, however, because in the
> past I did see some streaking with PMK and rotary processing. The
> film that I developed after the recent experience with the 20X24 was
> FP4+. It was developed in a Jobo 20X24 print drum on a Unicolor motor
> base with Pyrocat_HD and the negatives were perfect.
>
> When processing in print drums I do follow an agitation method that I
> would highly recommend. Once every 1-2 minutes, depending on time of
> development lift the drum off the motor base and agitate vertically
> for 10-15 minutes. If you don't do this you may get bromide drag from
> the laminar flow of the developer.
>
> Sandy King
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> Dear Sandy,
>> Your account has inspired me to borrow a friend's 20X24, for a project I've
>> been working on, photographing squatter settlements in Manila. I also have a
>> 450mm Nikkor-M and was pleasantly surprised to hear that it covers the
>> format! I am wondering how wide this lens ends up being on 20X24, something
>> like a 24mm in 35mm?
>> How did you process your film? I was thinking of using Rollo-pyro in a Jobo
>> 20X24 print drum, but am concerned about film streaks that I've heard occur
>> with the big print drums. Given the high cost of the film and the fact that
>> I only have one film holder, I don't want to lose film in the processing
>> stage so I'm thinking the safer alternative is a regular non-staining
>> developer that isn't so streak-sensitive. Its just that the pyro gives me
>> such delicate tonality in the sky. Anyone's experience developing this
>> format would be appreciated.
>> Thanks in advance, Neal
>>
>>> From: Sandy King <sanking@clemson.edu>
>>> Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>>> Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:51:46 -0500
>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>>> Subject: Experience with 20X24 format
>>>
>>> Hi folks,
>>>
>>> In this day of digital equipment I suspect that most of you will
>>> consider that the use of a 20X24" format camera is "alternative"
>>> photography. Which gives me justification to post the following
>>> information.
>>>
>>> Yesterday, with the aid of Sam Wang, I took a real live 20X24" camera
>>> into the field and made four negatives, using the FP4+ like film from
>>> PhotoWarehouse. Sam's help was invaluable because the camera, which
>>> is a home-made field camera after the Nagaoka, weighs about 50 pounds
>>> and it can be something of a bear to get on the tripod. I was pleased
>>> to find that my Manfrotto 3036 tripod and 3039 head, though not rated
>>> for this weight, supported the camera very well.
>>>
>>> I used three lenses for the four negatives, including a 480mm Dagor
>>> and a 450mm Nikkor-M and was really surprised to find out that the
>>> Nikkor-M covered the format and even allowed for a bit of movement.
>>>
>>> The negatives were developed in Pyrocat-HD for 15 minutes, based on a
>>> scene with a SBR of about 5. The only problem I had was a small light
>>> leak caused by movement of the holders on re-insertion of the dark
>>> slide after exposure. Actually, what I did was insert the slide
>>> between the camera and holder, thus pushing the holder slightly out
>>> and allowing light to pass. Silly thing to do but on the vertical the
>>> top of the holder was a foot over the top of my head and the
>>> insertion point thus not visible.
>>>
>>> Sandy King
>>>
>>>
>
>
> --
>
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