From: lva (lva@pamho.net)
Date: 10/01/01-09:34:26 AM Z
Hi David,
> I was wondering about that as well. I printed out your instructions
> and was reading them in bed last night, but I couldn't quite get the
> picture. I assumed you meant 'acetate' as used with an overhead
> projector, but wasn't sure why it was being used. I thought it might
> degrade the image if it's being used in front of the negative in the
> contact printing frame.
Yes, something like the transparencies for overhead projection or inkjet
printers. Just some clear film.
It doesn't degrade the image. However, it would severly degrade the
image if you'd place the clear film between the paper and the negative.
The emulsion of the negative must be in direct contact with the paper,
obviously.
The clear film is nothing but a carrier for the negative.
> Furthermore, I hope to be trying tri-colour gum printing within the
> next couple of weeks, and wondered if your method could be used for
> registration of four negatives.
Yes, it can be used for any number of negatives. But with four negs it's
not going to be a tri-color print :)
You pierce several clear films by pushing the needle/ruler unit through
the clear film.
----------------------
| |
| * | * = placement of holes
| |
| |
| * |
| | Top view
| |
| |
| |
| * |
| |
----------------------
This is the clear film. Put the film on the styrofoam or foamboard and
push the needle/ruler unit through the foil. Placement is not crucial,
but it should somewhere along one of the long sides, as shown above.
Give that treatment to four clear films.
Then punch the paper in the same way. Make sure the printing side of the
paper faces DOWN. This is important.
(BTW, the foamboard or piece of styrofoam is only there to keep the
paper and clear films flat when you punch the holes.)
Then tape your needle/ruler unit to a flat surface, ideally on a light
table, but any light colored surface will do. The taping is not
mandatory but makes the registration work much easier.
Then insert one of the punched clear films. Mount the cyan negative with
tape. (usually cyan has the best definition and sharpness). Make sure
the emulsion of the negative is up.
Front view
----------- <-- negative, emulsion up
--|-------------------- <-- clear film #1
===== <-- ruler with needle
Insert clear film #2 on top of all this and mount the magenta negative
in registration.
Lift clear film #2.
Insert clear film #3 on top of clear film #1. Mount the yellow negative
in registration.
Lift clear film #3.
Insert clear film #4 on top of clear film #1. Mount the black negative
in registration.
Lift clear films #4 and #1.
Now you have four sheets of clear film, each with a mounted negative.
You also have one sheet of paper.
On the table you have the needle/ruler unit still taped to its surface.
Now insert the paper, printing side UP.
The front view looks now like this: (note that now you work on the LEFT
side of the ruler)
---------------------|-- <-- clear film #1
----------- | <-- negative, emulsion down
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx|xx <-- paper
===== <-- ruler with needle
Secure the position of the clear film on the paper with tape (that's why
the paper should be a bit larger than the clear film).
Lift the paper-clear film-negative combo from the needles and proceed to
exposure. The needle/ruler unit stays on the table. You'll need it for
the other colors.
BTW, the thinner the needles, the more precise the positioning. Make
sure the needles are short. The shorter they are the more precise you
can work.
> I have a split-back contact-printing
> frame (just thought I'd mention in case it has any bearing on things!)
No problem.
Greetings from a terribly cold Sweden
Brahma
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