Re: cyanotype + chine colle

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From: nze christian (christian_nze@hotmail.com)
Date: 10/25/01-03:30:49 AM Z


Hi

I print on thin japanese paper. And if it they are made of kozo or gampi you
won't have any problem of disintegring.
The bigger problem is to keep the paper flat and for this it is better to
fix it with dextrine to a strong paper before you coat it. So it will keep
flat during coating and exposure and the two tissue will separate during the
washing.
because what ever the pressure sme thin paper are hard to get
flat.Amicalement

Nzé Christian
mailto:christian_nze@hotmail.com
http://www.c-nze.com

>From: "Eric S. Theise" <mataro@cyberwerks.com>
>Reply-To: mataro@cyberwerks.com
>To: bi3@georgetown.edu
>CC: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca (alt-photo)
>Subject: Re: cyanotype + chine colle
>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:08:04 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Thanks for the answers and feedback.
>
>bi3@georgetown.edu writes:
> > I often print cyanotypes using rice paper (if this is what is meant by
> > Japanese paper). What I have used gives a rich blue.
> >
> > I mat and frame the print on just the thin rice paper. I've never tried
> > using chine colle. It's an interesting idea. Let us know your results.
>
>I'm coming to cyanotypes from photogravure, and in my photogravures I
>print my images with quite a lot of margin, especially at the bottom,
>partly so that they read as prints, and not as what people normally
>think of as 'photographs'. I'd like to have a similar format with the
>cyanotypes, and my printmaker brain led me to chine colle as a possible
>solution.
>
>So I would try printing on kozu or mitzumata paper and then affixing
>the trimmed print to somerset satin, which is what I use for the
>photogravures.
>
>--Eric

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