From: Keith Gerling (kgerling@ameritech.net)
Date: 09/28/01-07:50:57 AM Z
All of my printing of late has been on 22x30 inch paper. I use a 28x28 inch
piece of "coffee table" glass that is almost a half inch thick, and beveled
on the edges. Incredibly heavy and awkward, it takes a bit of practiced
coordination to move it around, but it seems to do a good job of holding the
negative flat. I use a piece of carpeting underneath the print. One thing
is for sure: you won't need to worry about weights or rubber bands. I
bought this glass at a place called "Hobby Lobby" that specializes in silk
flowers and other weird, kitschy items. They also sell beeswax and paraffin
at prices far less than other stores.
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: Judy Seigel [mailto:jseigel@panix.com]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 1:50 AM
To: Bob and Carla
Cc: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca;
alt-photo-process-error@sask.usask.ca
Subject: Re: UV light and Contact Frame
On Thu, 27 Sep 2001, Bob and Carla wrote:
> I am a lttle surprised that nobody has mentioned this 'til now, but some
> printers that are not satisfied with the sharpness acheived by the wooden,
> spring-clamped contact frames make these "plate-glass sandwiches" as Judy
> calls them by having made two pieces of sufficiently larger-than-the-print
> glass...tempered with swiped edges. These then are held tightly together
by
> 8 of the super strong hand clips that have rubber tips, which can be
> purchased at Ace, Home Despot, or any local hardware store for about $1.95
> ea. These "sandwiches" are nifty and wonderfully simple.
> Robert
>
Bob, In the article, I show mine with weights on the center (2 gallons of
paint and a jug of water) -- my experience being that putting the weight
right over the negative does more for contact than clamping around the
edges. Of course size of the glass and the image are factors, but the
glass can actually bow with heavy clamps on perimenter. This assumes of
course print on top, bulbs underneath, but I've found that easiest anyway.
Judy
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