Re: Miss Scarlet, in the Studio, with the Brush

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From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 02/19/02-02:45:20 AM Z


Steve,

wouldn't it be easier to remake the negative?

J.

> Crocien Scarlet is the easiest to use of any negative assists on the
> market and is still available. It can be removed with 28% Amonia or
> water, the former is the easiest. You apply the solution onto the
> 'face' of the negative not the emulsion side, for once on the emulsion
> it may damage the negative.J.
>
> According to "Lootens on Photographic Printing and Enlarging" you begin with
> six two ounce bottles, flat covers and one dropper, some 28% Amonia and the
> red powder.
>
> Label all the bottles with tape and write the numbers 1 through 5 and put an
> A on the sixth. Mix 5g of the powder with one ounce of distilled water and
> a half of a drop of the Amonia mix into to the bottle labeled #5; in bottle
> 1 add five drops frombottle 5 to the same amount (one ounce water and half
> drop Amonia) of water; in #2 add 10 drops, into #3 add 20 drops and into #4
> add 40 drops.
>
> With some experimentation, you can add a full stop or as little as the most
> subtle threashold levels as you find necessary to touch up tobacco smoke in
> a portrait or cathedrial shafts of light in a landscape or architectural
> photograph. Pinholes, too. Some of us use it to minimalize dodging in thin
> negatives. You can use five drops in a liter of water (of the #3) to soak
> the whole negative to intensify a weak, under exposed negative; and the
> whole thing will rinse off after twelve hours of soaking in plain water.
>
> It does require a delft hand with a fine brush, or for large areas you can
> use a cotton swab or cotton ball. When you dip the brush (shake the
> solution of choice first as the suspension tends to seperate after sitting),
> stroke it on a towel or [I use a small matt board scrap] something
> relatively smooth and clean to prevent too much of the liquid leaking all
> over the negative uncontrollably. It will be a kind of syruppy stuff and
> may leave noticable brush strokes when the print is made, but you can even
> that with a wet brush.
>
> Be sure to let it dry at least an hour before printing or modifying the
> 'touch-up.'
>
> Th-th-that's all, folks.
> Steve Shapiro
> author
> "Carmel - A Timeless Place"
>
>


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