jeffbuck@swcp.com
Date: 01/30/02-04:52:05 PM Z
Clay, Carl and All: (1) I use Kerik's and Stewart's magic brush. Love it.
This for those listening is the Richeson 9500 (I think the number is) brush,
which costs like $80-$90 (gasp). (2) Picking up on the sub-thread re:
fragility of Platine and drying method. As a general rule, I've been drying
like so: Out of the final wash and onto a clothes-pin-on-a-wire for a minute
or two, turn 90 degrees for another minute or two. On to the ambient-air-only
drying screen. The ambient humidity varies by season and weather, of course,
but around 30-40 this time of year. I really don't know how fast the prints
dry at this rate, because I go out of my way to leave them be (I think
there's a superstitious impulse at work there), but I'm thinking pretty dang
dry in an hour or so but not really really dry for a couple more (?). I guess
I've thought of this as a very careful/robust drying technique, as opposed to
forced air of any kind (I will do that w/ testers and other rough drafts)....
-JB
clay <wcharmon@wt.net> said:
> Carl wrote:
>
> I've had a problem with
> >Platine ending up with a fragile finished print surface that nearly needs
to
> >be handled like a charcoal or pastel drawing. The Lenox seems quite immune
> >to scuffing or abrasion.
>
> Carl:
>
> I haven't really noticed this. How are you drying it after coating? With
> heat and forced air, moving ambient air, what? Just wondering if the time it
> takes the sensitizer to soak in may be a factor in fragility with Platine.
>
> Clay
>
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