From: Jeff Buckels (jeffbuck@swcp.com)
Date: 01/30/02-08:18:49 PM Z
Clay: I do what you do with two small differences that may be hurting me: (1) I've
been wetting the 9010 in filtered tap water, not distilled or deionized; (2) sounds to
me like I shake my a little more. I'll try the distilled etc. water and not shake it
quite so much. Thank you. -JB
clay wrote:
> Jeff:
>
> I think they may be pretty similar brushes. The Richeson 9010 I use is a
> synthetic fiber brush too. I use the 4" version and get it very wet with
> distilled water before coating. Then I give the brush 4-6 shakes and coat
> the paper. How dry is your brush?
>
> I agree with Carl that it is like the best of both worlds between using a
> rod or a brush. The really nice thing in my opinion is that since it is used
> so wet, you don't need an army of drying brushes in your darkroom. Just
> rinse it well, and dunk it in the distilled water and it's ready again.
>
> Clay
> ----------
> >From: Jeff Buckels <jeffbuck@swcp.com>
> >To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> >Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 6:58 PM
> >
>
> >Carl: I checked this out on the DS website. I take it we're talking about the
> >Richeson Quiller Sig. Series 7010 Flat brush? Up to 2"? Fifty bucks or so? I'd
> >love (actually, "love" just isn't enough of a word; I'd "lerve") to have a brush
> >that coats with the economy of a coating rod. Taking it for granted that I've
> >gotten competent w/ the natural fiber Richeson 7010 (thanks Clay), is there
> >going to
> >be any special trick to manipulating this Quiller? Further, I'm obviously leaving
> >my share of sensitizer in my current brush (I'm using about double what B&S
> >recommends for the coating rod), but it must be said that, as it is, I'm
> >not getting
> >the other kinds of problems associated, as far as I'm aware, with coating. So, I
> >dunno, anybody got anything to say about that?? -jeff buckels
> >
> >Carl Weese wrote:
> >
> >> Jeff,
> >>
> >> My "magic brush" is the Richeson *artificial bristle* brush sold by Daniel
> >> Smith as the "Stephen Quillar signature series". It works beautifully and
> >> sheds just about all of the expensive sensitizer, while the natural sable
> >> brush eats up at least 1/3 of the coating material. Not cheap, though less
> >> than natural critter fur, but the real saving is that it coats with the same
> >> drop counts as a glass tube.---Carl
> >> --
> >> web site with picture galleries
> >> and workshop information at:
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~cweese/
> >>
> >> ----------
> >> >From: jeffbuck@swcp.com
> >> >To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> >> >Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
> >> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 5:52 PM
> >> >
> >>
> >> > Clay, Carl and All: (1) I use Kerik's and Stewart's magic brush. Love it.
> >> > This for those listening is the Richeson 9500 (I think the number is) brush,
> >> > which costs like $80-$90 (gasp). (2) Picking up on the sub-thread re:
> >> > fragility of Platine and drying method. As a general rule, I've been drying
> >> > like so: Out of the final wash and onto a clothes-pin-on-a-wire for a minute
> >> > or two, turn 90 degrees for another minute or two. On to the ambient-air-only
> >> > drying screen. The ambient humidity varies by season and weather, of course,
> >> > but around 30-40 this time of year. I really don't know how fast the prints
> >> > dry at this rate, because I go out of my way to leave them be (I think
> >> > there's a superstitious impulse at work there), but I'm thinking pretty dang
> >> > dry in an hour or so but not really really dry for a couple more (?). I guess
> >> > I've thought of this as a very careful/robust drying technique, as opposed to
> >> > forced air of any kind (I will do that w/ testers and other rough drafts)....
> >> > -JB
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > clay <wcharmon@wt.net> said:
> >> >
> >> >> Carl wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I've had a problem with
> >> >> >Platine ending up with a fragile finished print surface that nearly needs
> >> > to
> >> >> >be handled like a charcoal or pastel drawing. The Lenox seems quite immune
> >> >> >to scuffing or abrasion.
> >> >>
> >> >> Carl:
> >> >>
> >> >> I haven't really noticed this. How are you drying it after coating? With
> >> >> heat and forced air, moving ambient air, what? Just wondering if the time it
> >> >> takes the sensitizer to soak in may be a factor in fragility with Platine.
> >> >>
> >> >> Clay
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >
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