From: clay (wcharmon@wt.net)
Date: 01/30/02-08:40:36 PM Z
I doubt if distilled versus filtered would make any major difference - I
just do it because my tap water in the darkroom seems to have a bit of iron
in it. But I do make sure the brush is pretty wet. I do advise wiping the
metal ferrule with a towel before getting it over your paper. Virtual
certainty that a drop will land right in the middle of your paper just as
you're pouring the sensitizer otherwise.
Clay
----------
>From: Jeff Buckels <jeffbuck@swcp.com>
>To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
>Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 8:18 PM
>
>Clay: I do what you do with two small differences that may be hurting me:
>(1) I've
>been wetting the 9010 in filtered tap water, not distilled or deionized;
>(2) sounds to
>me like I shake my a little more. I'll try the distilled etc. water and
>not shake it
>quite so much. Thank you. -JB
>
>clay wrote:
>
>> Jeff:
>>
>> I think they may be pretty similar brushes. The Richeson 9010 I use is a
>> synthetic fiber brush too. I use the 4" version and get it very wet with
>> distilled water before coating. Then I give the brush 4-6 shakes and coat
>> the paper. How dry is your brush?
>>
>> I agree with Carl that it is like the best of both worlds between using a
>> rod or a brush. The really nice thing in my opinion is that since it is used
>> so wet, you don't need an army of drying brushes in your darkroom. Just
>> rinse it well, and dunk it in the distilled water and it's ready again.
>>
>> Clay
>> ----------
>> >From: Jeff Buckels <jeffbuck@swcp.com>
>> >To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
>> >Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
>> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 6:58 PM
>> >
>>
>> >Carl: I checked this out on the DS website. I take it we're talking about the
>> >Richeson Quiller Sig. Series 7010 Flat brush? Up to 2"? Fifty bucks or
>so? I'd
>> >love (actually, "love" just isn't enough of a word; I'd "lerve") to have a brush
>> >that coats with the economy of a coating rod. Taking it for granted that I've
>> >gotten competent w/ the natural fiber Richeson 7010 (thanks Clay), is there
>> >going to
>> >be any special trick to manipulating this Quiller? Further, I'm
>obviously leaving
>> >my share of sensitizer in my current brush (I'm using about double what B&S
>> >recommends for the coating rod), but it must be said that, as it is, I'm
>> >not getting
>> >the other kinds of problems associated, as far as I'm aware, with
>coating. So, I
>> >dunno, anybody got anything to say about that?? -jeff buckels
>> >
>> >Carl Weese wrote:
>> >
>> >> Jeff,
>> >>
>> >> My "magic brush" is the Richeson *artificial bristle* brush sold by Daniel
>> >> Smith as the "Stephen Quillar signature series". It works beautifully and
>> >> sheds just about all of the expensive sensitizer, while the natural sable
>> >> brush eats up at least 1/3 of the coating material. Not cheap, though less
>> >> than natural critter fur, but the real saving is that it coats with the same
>> >> drop counts as a glass tube.---Carl
>> >> --
>> >> web site with picture galleries
>> >> and workshop information at:
>> >>
>> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~cweese/
>> >>
>> >> ----------
>> >> >From: jeffbuck@swcp.com
>> >> >To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>> >> >Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
>> >> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 5:52 PM
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> > Clay, Carl and All: (1) I use Kerik's and Stewart's magic brush. Love it.
>> >> > This for those listening is the Richeson 9500 (I think the number is) brush,
>> >> > which costs like $80-$90 (gasp). (2) Picking up on the sub-thread re:
>> >> > fragility of Platine and drying method. As a general rule, I've been drying
>> >> > like so: Out of the final wash and onto a clothes-pin-on-a-wire for
>a minute
>> >> > or two, turn 90 degrees for another minute or two. On to the
>ambient-air-only
>> >> > drying screen. The ambient humidity varies by season and weather,
>of course,
>> >> > but around 30-40 this time of year. I really don't know how fast the prints
>> >> > dry at this rate, because I go out of my way to leave them be (I think
>> >> > there's a superstitious impulse at work there), but I'm thinking pretty dang
>> >> > dry in an hour or so but not really really dry for a couple more
>(?). I guess
>> >> > I've thought of this as a very careful/robust drying technique, as
>opposed to
>> >> > forced air of any kind (I will do that w/ testers and other rough
>drafts)....
>> >> > -JB
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > clay <wcharmon@wt.net> said:
>> >> >
>> >> >> Carl wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I've had a problem with
>> >> >> >Platine ending up with a fragile finished print surface that nearly needs
>> >> > to
>> >> >> >be handled like a charcoal or pastel drawing. The Lenox seems quite immune
>> >> >> >to scuffing or abrasion.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Carl:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I haven't really noticed this. How are you drying it after coating? With
>> >> >> heat and forced air, moving ambient air, what? Just wondering if
>the time it
>> >> >> takes the sensitizer to soak in may be a factor in fragility with Platine.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Clay
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > --
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >
>
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