Re: Quickee Cyanotype Question

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From: Robert W. Schramm (schrammrus@hotmail.com)
Date: 07/30/02-11:49:02 AM Z

Eric,

  Almost any good watercolor paper should work well unless it has been
buffered. If it has it will bleach cyanotype. Drying with hot air after
sensitizing will cause a loss of contrast in the print. You might want to
try using 2 Parts A to 1 Part B. This will also improve contrast.
I determined the truth of the above as a result of a series of tests using
21 step tablets and a good, dense, high contrast negative. For best results
your negative should be such that it would print well on silver with a #0
contrast filter.

Good luck,
Bob Schramm

>From: Eric Nelson <emanmb@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Quickee Cyanotype Question
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:27:09 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I'm doing a cyanotype project this week and it's been
>years since I've monkeyed w/this process.
>
>My question is, using the formula below, (unless I
>hear otherwise), what is the best/favorite paper using
>brush application? At this moment I'm testing Platine
>since I have that in the lab, but the first test was
>kinda poopy, (i.e. weak shadows, blotchy).
>
>I am changing the length of time the sensitizer sets
>before using the hair dryer to see if that helps.
>Also, it's a hot steamy day here in Chicago but have
>AC in the lab and I'm using sunlight to expose these.
>
>Thanks for any and all help!
>
>Eric Nelson
>
>Solution A:
>Ferric Ammonium Citrate 27.2 gm
>Oxalic Acid .5
>Water to make 100 ml
>
>Solution B:
>Potassium Ferricyanide 9.2 gm
>Oxalic Acid .5 gm
>Ammonium Dichromate 0.2 gm
>Water to make 100 ml
>
>
>
>
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Check out my web page at:

  http://www.SchrammStudio.com

also look at:

  http://www.wlsc.wvnet.edu/www/pubrel/photo.html

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