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Re: mordancage



<snips from Jonathan Bailey>
You can also buy 100 volume for a fairly reasonable price from Tri-Ess in
> Burbank - but they won't ship it if the weather is hot.

Jonathan,
You ain't a kiddin!  My 135 volume bottle does not stand upright well
because the bottom bulges out from expansion.  I have a question:  is it
safe to heat the hydrogen peroxide, I wonder, in a microwave?  I started to
do so, and then got cold feet, having visions of it exploding me out of the
darkroom.  It wasn't the 135 v stuff but the 40v stuff.

<I said>
> Thus I have a stack I can continue to experiment with at the moment, and
> will continue to test this yellowing thing more.
<Jonathan said>
Well, prints that have been through mordancage will continue to change for
> days, week, months! afterwards.  Especially those that retained the
delicate
> emulsion veiling - which a thorough washing would certainly destroy.  Is
> this what you're referring to??

No, these are previously printed normal bw prints; however, some are toned,
some are fixed in hardening fixer, and all are on different papers--matt,
gloss, Ilford, Forte.  I've got a stack of them I will run thru the
chemicals.  I could put a couple images up on your web but you'd have to
tell me how to do so--just email you a jpeg and if so, at what resolution?
     And, like a moth to a flame, I will keep going back to the other
formulae that don't work as well and make sure it wasn't just a bad day or a
bad print...oh how I love summer with no students in the darkroom and the
ability to spread out all over the place and make a huge mess...
     The one thing I am quite interested in nailing down is the use of a
hardener in fixer as to how much it may inhibit the emulsion disintegration,
so I'll find that out tomorrow.  In the last year or so I have not been
using hardener in my fix ever and thus I have dug out old prints to test.  I
would also like to test the drugstore h.p...hmmm...and heat vs no heat.  And
stain.
     Later,
Chris