Re: one more mordancage post, long...

["Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@montana.net>]

Yes, Normunds, 2T copper chloride, 80 ml glacial acetic, and 1000ml water.
Use 20v h.p.
     Another quickie:  three last things i tested with mordancage:  one was
to spray paint stencil designs on a print to see if the bleach etch would
eat thru the paint, and it didn't.  The spray painted stencils stayed intact
albeit a bit etchy.  Thus this has real possibilities, especially with a
clear spray paint, for instance, where you could stencil a message on your
print in the black areas that would remain.
     I also tried the Coote method of reexposing a print that has been
developed and bleached but not fixed.  It barely registered the second
exposure, so I'm not sure why, but perhaps the print is rendered less
sensitive by the bleach to light? However, it certainly isn't when you turn
on the room light and do a sabattier--it'll turn black everywhere.  So it
must be that the reexposure has to be maybe quadruple what you would expect.
I did this and only got a faint reexposure on one image.  It could also be
that my images were dense, but I used the exposure that I normally do with
that neg and it didn't work.
     I did print slides on the mordancage--I used my .dr5 process slides
(slides made from black and white hp5 negs in a place in NY) and they work
well--the negative print becomes a positive upon rubbing.
     Today I am trying to figure out how to get a web page going so I can
post the yellowing results of the mordancage for you guys to access.
Chris

> Hi everyone,
>
> All this talk about mordancage makes me want to try it, and it looks like
> the formula with copper chloride works better.  But which form of copper
> chloride is it - copper(I) cloride (CuCl) or Copper(II) Chloride (CuCl2)?
>
> Thanks,
> Normunds