From: Eric Neilsen (e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net)
Date: 10/01/02-06:04:15 PM Z
Color shifts that I have seen tend more towards yellow, but a simple CC
filter should take care of any slight shift or perhaps a colored filter
before exposure. I didn't say it would be a right out of the box
solution
: )
Have fun
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotgraphy.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Lovenguth [mailto:chrisml@pacbell.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 9:31 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Suggestions on how to keep highlights from overexposing on
My biggest worry would be that the color shifts to red or magenta since
even
the slightest bit will turn the tones to black. I was wondering what
would
happen if I added a layer to the image. For example if I added a sheet
of
black and white unexposed and developed film above my film, wouldn't
that
possibly help with the highlights, or would that just increase the
exposure
time which will result in the same ending?
I think I have to just realize that my zones of exposure are less for
this
process if I don't want the solarize look. I have just printed an image
where there are hardly any highlights and the main object brightest area
is
maybe zone 6. It is the first image on my site now. This one has come
out
with a completely different look to it. It was developed with other
images
for the same amount of time, yet it is a bit colder in tone. All plates
were
fumed to the same color so I don't think there was an inconsistency in
fuming that made this one come out colder, etc. I think exposure can
really
affect how a daguerreotype comes out. Either that or the fact the film
was
denser and the same amount of development exposure time didn't blow out
the
image. That brings me back to the idea of maybe helping my white in my
film
by adding a sort of filter to it. It would be the same idea that I use
when
over developing my black and white film to add density to it for alt
process
printing for Van Dyke or Platinum.
-Chris
http://www.absolutearts.com/portfolios/c/clovenguth/
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Collins [mailto:photo@intrex.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:01 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Suggestions on how to keep highlights from overexposing on
I have found that a 2 stop pull doesn't change the colors too much, when
using E100S or Provia.
Bill
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Eric Neilsen <e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net>
Reply-to: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 00:03:48 -0500
>Chris, Since you are not really interested in the quality of the color
I
>would "pull" the whole concept a bit further. Try over exposing by 1/2
>to 1 1/2 Stops and pulling back two. This will open up your slides.
>The color will shift all over the place but unless you plan to use them
>to project, I think that this would be a quick fix for you. You can go
>up until the highlights can't be pulled back, that should give you a
>flatter smoother positive.
>
>Eric Neilsen Photography
>4101 Commerce Street
>Suite 9
>Dallas, TX 75226
>http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
>http://ericneilsenphotgraphy.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Christopher Lovenguth [mailto:chrisml@pacbell.net]
>Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 10:58 PM
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Suggestions on how to keep highlights from overexposing on
>daguerreotypes.
>
>Hi all, I have a dilemma that sounds simple to fix but I don't really
>think
>it's all that simple. Pretty much my highlights (white with detail) in
>my
>daguerreotypes I'm printing from chromes are blowing out and
solarizing.
>To
>see what I mean, if you want no obligation, take a look here:
>www.absolutearts.com/portfolios/c/clovenguth/
>
>Now I'm going to try the basic steps to fix this. First I'm thinking
>about
>dodging the highlights, my exposure of the plate only last about 15-20
>seconds. The thing is that I think the highlights are solarizing at
>about
>5-8 seconds in to it since chromes have no base fog. The other idea I
>have
>had is to underexpose my film. I don't really have the capabilities to
>develop slide film at home so I am just getting normal development done
>at a
>lab. It's been awhile but what would happen if I exposed the film
normal
>and
>then had the film developed pushed? Would that do anything to the
>highlights
>like add density? Like I said it's been awhile since I worked with
>chrome
>and have forgotten what pushing and pulling will do.
>
>Besides these two options are there any I'm forgetting? Of course the
>last
>option would be to keep the solarization, which is starting to grow on
>me
>but is flatting out the subjects which bothers me compositionally.
>
>Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks -Chris
>
>
>
>
>
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