From: Steve Shapiro (sgshiya@redshift.com)
Date: 09/13/02-06:11:57 AM Z
Subject: Re: printing with light bulbs; Swiffers
I use the 300 watt frosted bulb also for Azo.
S
> Steve wrote:
>
> >First: For silver Gelatin contact prints use the FROSTED refrigerator 7
1/2
> >watt bulb at 36 inches.
>
>
> This makes sense. I got the bare bulb because on the azo forum
> somebody said that a bare bulb is required. Maybe that's true for
> azo paper, and pyro negatives.
>
>
> > It is exactly 1/2 foot candle of light to the galss
> >on the print frame. BTW you only get newton rings if there is any amount
of
> >moisture on the glass. From there you make the time work with that
light.
> >If your exposures are too short, your negatives are too thin.
>
>
> At first I was printing a step tablet. Then I printed a negative
> that was slightly thin in the shadows, which I was dodging a bit.
>
>
> > Raise the
> >light in incriments of 12 inches at a time. (Please don't make me go
into
> >the Coloumb quantim or the Hall effect) Take my word for it.
>
>
> What if I threatened you with a long discussion about the ethics of
> making photographs of nude sharecroppers and putting them on a
> calendar?
>
> >
> >Second: Using Azo paper ALWAYS use a 300 watt bulb, 36 inches from the
> >paper. Sometimes my exposures (that actually average from 12 secs on
Grade
> >4 to 24 seconds on Grade 2) are as long as 124 seconds, but that's rare.
> >Some negaties made for L O N G platinum print times go as long an average
of
> >104 seconds; and then I lower the 300 watt bulb to 24 or 18 seconds and
> >halve the time. Again, it's a principle in physics I can go into if your
> >having problems and wish to send me a print, but it's too much to write
out.
>
>
> What kind of negatives are you using? Some people say that pyro
> negatives take more wattage than a negative developed in say D76.
>
>
> >Using Amidol formulas, and I recommend the Weston Kit from the
> >Photographers' Formulary to begin with . . . . What formula do you plan
to
> >use, Shannon? . . .
>
>
> Michael's formula, but I'm open to suggestions.
>
>
> > remember Amidol brings up the image in from 15 secnds to
> >half a minute and is a 3 minute average developer at 68- 75 degrees. The
> >strange effect of Amidol is that the longer the print is imersed, the
> >clearer the highlights.
>
>
> How strange!
>
>
> >
> >Both the light bulb and that 36 inch distance along with the 3 minute
> >emersion in Amidol developer are consistant, constants. Any adjustments
can
> >be made with the time of esposure or an intermediate water bath while
> >developing. It is important to begin with the light constant described
and
> >the emersion time for the first prints. Make a step tablet and derrive
from
> >there.
>
>
> OK, thanks.
>
> >
> >Let me know. It's sooooo gratifying to make contact prints.
>
>
> Indeed. The crispy little details and all that.
>
> --shannon
>
> >
> >Steve Shapiro
> >sgshiya@redshift.com
>
>
> --
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.5 : 10/01/02-03:47:09 PM Z CST