Re: Was someone asking about printing daguerreotypes from film?

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From: Robert W. Schramm (schrammrus@hotmail.com)
Date: 09/26/02-05:34:34 PM Z


Thanks for the info Chris. When I get some time I believe I will try a few
plates. Again, I like what you have done so far. Best of luck.
Bob Schramm

>From: Christopher Lovenguth <zantzant@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Re: Was someone asking about printing daguerreotypes from film?
>Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 18:34:28 +0000
>
>From what I have been reading the Becquerel overexposed white (solorized),
>is that brownish color I’m getting which is not as pronounced on the
>original unlike the digital version. What I understand is that when you use
>the mercury development (which I know you do), you get the blues in the
>solorized areas. You don’t get blue in Becquerel (maybe the lack of
>bromine?). My warm tones are coming from a 6+ hour development under
>rubylith in the sun. The longer you expose the plate in Becquerel the
>warmer it gets. The exposure is done in about one hour and then after that
>tones start to flatten out and turn warm. So (crash course in Becquerel
>development here which I'm maybe just at apprentice level) I'm using a
>first level fume colors that is somewhat contrasty and developing longer to
>flatten it out.
>
>I am using chrome film since I want a true representation of what I’m
>photographing. That way the reds in my image for example turn black in the
>daguerreotype. That is why in my image the doll’s lips are black since they
>are painted red.
>
>About possible damage to the plates when I put the chrome on it, my plates
>are not pristine to begin with and I’m not worried about getting a perfect
>plate since I like seeing the process in my image. Also (I'm guessing here)
>the bromine fuming (which I don't need to do in Becquerel) might make the
>layer a little more fragile. I know the iodine plate the slightest touch
>with a finger will damage it, but what I have notice is that flat surfaces
>tend not to harm it. So I'm just really gentle placing the plate on the
>chrome.
>
>I am using a 16x20 contact printing frame that I use for all my alt stuff.
>It has rather thick glass. So I put the chrome down on the glass and then
>put the plate on top of that and replace the frame back which is a spring
>back. I’m putting the frame under a single 500 watt blue photoflood bulb
>which is about 2-3 feet from the glass. The exposure for my example was 45
>seconds but it needs to be a little less. I am fuming the iodine to that
>first leve magenta almost blue which I get in about 1 1/2 minutes in to
>fuming with a 4x5 box that the iodine crystals are about 5 inches away from
>the plate. I am then going directly to the contact frame and exposing. Then
>I’m putting the plate into a holder with the rubylith covering the plate
>and putting it in my apartment window which faces south and a very little
>east in San Francisco starting around 7am. I come home around 6pm and fix
>it with hypo, wash and guild. That’s it.
>
>Once I get the exposure time down under the photoflood, this will be one of
>the easier alt processes I have done (excluding the buffing of the plate
>which I'm still awful at)! Of course it is a completely different story
>trying to get an image in camera which is where I want to be at. But for
>right now I’m happy with doing things this way and if I can get some
>consistency and a body of work visually interesting, I'll think it's
>affective. -Chris
>
>
>>From: "Robert W. Schramm" <schrammrus@hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>>Subject: Re: Was someone asking about printing daguerreotypes from film?
>>Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:15:31 -0400
>>
>>
>>Christopher,
>>
>> I viewed you image and like it very much. I do Hg developed dags.
>>I like very much to colors you are getting. Tell me how you lay the
>>negative on the fumed plate and get it back off without damaging the
>>silver iodide coating. Do you also put a piece of glass on to to hold the
>>negative flat? BTW I sometimes overexpose my plates which causes the
>>highlights to ture blue. One more question: are you using a negative or a
>>positive? I ask because transparency film will give you a positive, in
>>fact, a color positive.
>>
>>Bob Schramm
>
>
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