From: Christopher Lovenguth (chrisml@pacbell.net)
Date: 09/24/02-07:24:37 PM Z
I think someone awhile back was asking about using a negative to make
daguerreotypes. Well that is what I have been working on and I think I
almost have it. I have been using transparency film, more specifically 4x5
Fujichrome Provia 100F. I am using the Becquerel process for my
daguerreotypes. I am just exposing and processing the 4x5 sheet film
normally and then exposing the dag plate to a 500 watt blue tinted
photoflood about 2ft off my printing frame for 45 seconds. That time is
still producing overexposure with my plate fumed to the first magenta/blue
color so I think the time is about 15-25 seconds. I am actually going to
test raising the light bulb so that I can get a longer exposure, which might
help with the whites blowing out and solarizing (which is that heavy brown
area on my example). I am then developing with rubylith under indirect
sunshine all day long (I'm putting it in my window and going to work).
Here is the best one I have done yet which I just finished today with some
gilding if you care to view:
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=1030102
It is darker brown and higher contrast then the original since my scanner is
really old and poor and this is the closest I could get it to the original
in Photoshop (I really didn't want to spend much time on it since it is a
test).
I'm not finding any issues with damaging the plate with sandwiching the
negative, granted my plates are never pristine to begin with. I bet over
time my negative will deteriorate being pushed up against iodine but I plan
to only use these as a sort of inter-neg anyways and once I get the image
down I plan to destroy the film. I want the preciousness of the single
daguerreotype. Anyway I hope that answers whomever's question that
was. -Chris
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