From: Dave Rose (cactuscowboy@attbi.com)
Date: 04/19/03-08:56:13 AM Z
Dear Judy,
There are no steps after #14 on a T-14 scale. I suspect that had I used a
21 step scale, there would have been a "reverse ladder" effect as you've
experienced.
To further clarify, the "non-exposed border areas" on my gum prints result
from the negatives being masked with goldenrod paper and red litho tape. I
have a personal preference for clean borders instead of the 'wide brush
stroke' look that's popular with some photographers.
Best regards,
Dave in Wyoming
http://www.alternativephotography.com/dave_rose.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Judy Seigel" <jseigel@panix.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: Mixing a light pigment for gum
> >
> > > From: Dave Rose <cactuscowboy@attbi.com>
> > > Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> > > Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 19:45:08 -0600
> > > To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> > > Subject: Re: Mixing a light pigment for gum
> > >
> > >
> > > Another curious effect with Sennelier Mars Black - the staining was
heavy in
> > > non-exposed border areas on the test print while steps 9-14 on the
Kodak
> > > Control Scale T-14 cleared nicely.
>
>
> But after step 14 how was the staining? I found with some brands of paint
> (especially Liquitex watercolor, now discontinued, but certain colors in
> other brands) a reverse ladder, that is, no staining after the immediate
> highlights, then progressively more staining until it made a step tablet
> in reverse. (I showed one of these in P-F #3, page 38, using WN
> ultramarine.) Mike Ware theorized that it was the decreased viscosity as
> exposure went from slight to nil. Why only certain brands? Obviously,
> different ingredients, and/or different manufacture.
>
> J.
>
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