From: Loris Medici (lorism@tnn.net)
Date: 08/06/03-08:36:19 AM Z
Hi Tom,
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Ferguson [mailto:tomf2468@pipeline.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 5:20 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: Cyanotype curve
>
>
> Cyanotype is a confusing process. People want it to be "so
> simple", and
> on one level it is. It is also a complex process that react widely to
> your technique and materials.
I didn't know that last fact but starting to realize/concretize it quite
well :)
> There can't be "one curve" for
> any process
> (too many variables), there most definitely can't be "one curve" for
> cyanotype!! I'm sure Dan know this and gives his curves as "starting
> points" for all of us to fine tune and mess with.
I did another curve (similar general form but it starts with 0 - 32 and
ends around 140-150... it was a great amnt. of modification because it
came out very flat - this is not the flat print I mentioned before; it's
another one). It seems that I should experiment with less wild
adjustments.
> You said Dan's cyanotype curve was too flat, and the image you posted
The flat one was from a specific cyanotype curve in Dan's CD - was
donated from another person / don't remember his/her name.
> using his platinum curve was (too my eyes) too contrasty. Compare the
> two curves and mathematically average them. This won't give you (and
> your chemistry, paper, water, techniques) perfection, but it will get
> you close. From there it is just play, if your prints are too flat,
> increase the curves contrast, to dark in the mid tones, adjust the
> curve. Using a step wedge (as you did) really helps.
>
> I figure it takes me 6 or 8 prints to get a really good curve
> without a
> densitometer.
One problem is that I still couldn't find an effective and repeatable
way to coat the paper (don't want to use glass rods - want nice brush
marks)... I guess I should practice more. Thanks for the suggestions.
Regards,
Loris.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> On Tuesday, August 5, 2003, at 10:49 PM, Loris Medici wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > There's a cyanotype curve in the companion CD of Dan's book (don't
> > remember the donator's name). What is the correct way of using that
> > curve? I made a "Color Table" spectral negative on
> Pictorico OHP (with
> > a Stylus Photo 890 - Photoshop color settings as supplied
> in Dan's web
> > site, printer driver settings as recommended for Stylus Photo 1280,
> > color = 0 55 55 0) using that curve and the print was very flat.
> > Should I print it using the "Colorize" method? I didn't try
> the latter
> > option because the highlights get very dense when using "Colorize"
> > method + that curve (I'm afraid of mottling/smearing in
> highlights -
> > dense parts of the negative I mean).
> >
> > This is the best what I managed to get with Pictorico OHP + 1280
> > Platinum Curve (and 1280 printer driver settings) on my 890:
> > http://abone.tnn.net/lorism/cyanotype-03.jpg
> > What do you think? I don't like it much, it is too
> contrasty (washed
> > out higlights and burned shadows) and the tones in the step
> table are
> > not linear...
> >
> > This is how the print should look like (except for its color):
> > http://abone.tnn.net/lorism/cyanotype-01-inkjet-version.jpg
> > (This is the same file I used to print the inkjet negative - I just
> > added the set wedge in the negative)
> >
> > Do you think one can get the same tonal range/smoothness
> and quality
> > with a cyanotype print? Or am I fighting with windmills?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Loris.
> >
> >
> --------------
> Tom Ferguson
> http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.5 : 09/05/03-09:30:45 AM Z CST
