From: Tom Ferguson (tomf2468@pipeline.com)
Date: 08/06/03-08:19:50 AM Z
Cyanotype is a confusing process. People want it to be "so simple", and
on one level it is. It is also a complex process that react widely to
your technique and materials. There can't be "one curve" for any process
(too many variables), there most definitely can't be "one curve" for
cyanotype!! I'm sure Dan know this and gives his curves as "starting
points" for all of us to fine tune and mess with.
You said Dan's cyanotype curve was too flat, and the image you posted
using his platinum curve was (too my eyes) too contrasty. Compare the
two curves and mathematically average them. This won't give you (and
your chemistry, paper, water, techniques) perfection, but it will get
you close. From there it is just play, if your prints are too flat,
increase the curves contrast, to dark in the mid tones, adjust the
curve. Using a step wedge (as you did) really helps.
I figure it takes me 6 or 8 prints to get a really good curve without a
densitometer.
Hope that helps.
On Tuesday, August 5, 2003, at 10:49 PM, Loris Medici wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> There's a cyanotype curve in the companion CD of Dan's book (don't
> remember the donator's name). What is the correct way of using that
> curve? I made a "Color Table" spectral negative on Pictorico OHP (with a
> Stylus Photo 890 - Photoshop color settings as supplied in Dan's web
> site, printer driver settings as recommended for Stylus Photo 1280,
> color = 0 55 55 0) using that curve and the print was very flat. Should
> I print it using the "Colorize" method? I didn't try the latter option
> because the highlights get very dense when using "Colorize" method +
> that curve (I'm afraid of mottling/smearing in highlights - dense parts
> of the negative I mean).
>
> This is the best what I managed to get with Pictorico OHP + 1280
> Platinum Curve (and 1280 printer driver settings) on my 890:
> http://abone.tnn.net/lorism/cyanotype-03.jpg
> What do you think? I don't like it much, it is too contrasty (washed out
> higlights and burned shadows) and the tones in the step table are not
> linear...
>
> This is how the print should look like (except for its color):
> http://abone.tnn.net/lorism/cyanotype-01-inkjet-version.jpg
> (This is the same file I used to print the inkjet negative - I just
> added the set wedge in the negative)
>
> Do you think one can get the same tonal range/smoothness and quality
> with a cyanotype print? Or am I fighting with windmills?
>
> Regards,
> Loris.
>
>
--------------
Tom Ferguson
http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com
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