Re: Photogravure tissue, was B&S Carbon Tissue

From: Craig Zammiello ^lt;zamm@optonline.net>
Date: 12/06/03-05:37:37 PM Z
Message-id: <000901c3bc51$ee5ab240$fec1be18@asb.com>

> Thank Craig, for that information. I have been using the red Autotype
gravure
> tissue, and I can imagine that it would be difficult to see the etch
progress
> with a black pigmented tissue. Autotype's website says that the gravure
tissue
> is sold in the 65 foot rolls only, so I will call them on Monday, and see
what
> other sizes they may offer. Do you know of any other retailers for their
> tissue? By the way, which tissue are you using, the G25 or the G35?
>
> Regards, Jack R.

Jack, Yep it would be impossible to tell where you were in the etching
progress. I have had some of these difficulties in the past using powdered
asphaltum as my "screening" grain on copper. Even with the reddish carbon
tissue, you could not tell how much etching was taking place because of the
black powder under the tissue.
As for Autotype tissue, it is really crap, slimy, unpredictable 2nd rate
product. But, by default, it happens to be the finest carbon tissue made
today for photogravure! :) When compared to the magic of McGraw Colorgraph
of the 80"s who went out of biz and sold their formulas and machines to the
German Firm Hansfstengle GmBh, who continued to produce McGraw type tissue
of varying consistency, I would not have touched the stuff ( Autotype that
is), but I'm real happy they are still making us a product to use, Word has
it they will keep producing it for another two years, so let's keep up the
demand!! :)

I use the G35 for high contrast line work generally, such as halftone pieces
or type.
The G25 I use for typical continuous tone/aquatinted photogravure.
Adjustments to the speeds ( sort of changing the ASA ) can be obtained by
the concentration of dichromate one sensitizes the tissue with. I generally
have 3,4 and 5 % solutions and decide what to use according to what my copy
is.
If you are looking to do photo work, stick with the G25, unless you have
overly flat, washed out positives, where the G35 might help.

I know the stuff comes in different widths, I'm constantly getting rolls
that are different every time I order. I kind of take what they have at the
moment, which seem to be what you are facing.

As for any other retailers having the carbon tissue, there may well be, but
I don't know. I think you can only get it from Autotype America.
I'm away from the studio at the moment, but I believe these to be accurate
addresses:

In the USA I get it from : Autotype America, 2050 Hammond Drive, Schamburg,
IL 60173, USA, Tel 847-303-5900, Fax: 312-303-5225

Autotype International Limited
Grove Road, Wantage,
Oxon OX 127B2
England
Tel: 44(0)1235 77 1111
Fax: 44(0) 1235 77 1196

One other thing Jack, to make this stuff work as well as it can, keep it
cold when you sensitize it, at least 48 to 51 degrees F. tops, and for a max
soak time of 3 minutes. Any higher in temp. and it just starts to run and
get real soluble, hard to know how much dichromate it's picked up. If the
temp's kept low, you can fudge on the length of time soaked and get a bit
more dichromate into the tissue relative to it's curve.

Other thing. real Rotogravure ferric chloride to etch with. It's worth it.
believe me.
This can be gotten from the Fuji Hunt Photographic Chemicals Inc., Paramus,
NJ 07652
Tel: 1-800-344-1847. It's called Roto-Iron # 840363 and comes in 15 gal.
plastic drums. Acid free and clean and predictable. Perhaps another item
several people may want to go in on together.

Okay Jack, good luck, Craig Zammiello
Received on Sat Dec 6 17:37:56 2003

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