From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 02/06/03-10:14:58 AM Z
Martin,
Some have said that UV inhibitors exist in paper, and thus paper negs
are unsuitable for alt UV processes. Obviously, then, you have not found
this to be true?? What are your printing times with a peeled oiled paper
neg and cyano?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Reis" <mreis@tafelmusik.org>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: Paper Negatives by reversal
Funny you should mention that. I have some cyanos in my window right
which use a paper negative made from a slide printed onto B&W paper
(yes, Panalure would be better). I peeled off the paper backing
and oiled the paper with olive oil, then dried it before placing into
the contact frame ... my first tests doing this were promising.
By the way, I did my prints in dry processor onto regular RC paper.
May have to shoot some more slide film I guess.
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: Manuel Galán Molina [mailto:mgalanmolina@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 10:39
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: Paper Negatives by reversal
Hi list.
Two years ago, i think, somebody put on the list a process to obtain paper
negatives by reversal. I have mailed another process, see below, but i want
to compare the two process. Anybody remembers this, or something like this?
I put this email in the pinhole list also, sorry for duplication if anybody
is on both list.
Thanks
Manuel, Spain
My process (from http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/faq.html)
PROCESSING ENLARGING PAPER AS A POSITIVE
...means you can use the paper in a camera and make one-of-a-kind images...
...roughly collected from info seen in various rec.photo postings...
If you use the paper as a material in the camera then you may wish to
consider
using Panalure for "normal" looking results in terms of tonal reproduction.
This is becasue normal B&W papers are not sensitive to red and thus anything
colored red in a scene will turn out very dark or black.
You can also make B&W prints directly from slides this way. Place a slide in
the enlarger and project it onto B&W paper. Again, to maintain more natural
looking tones use Panalure.
The chemicals and processing steps are as follows:
First Developer 60-90 seconds
Rinse 30 seconds
Bleach R-9 30-60 seconds
Rinse 30 seconds
Clear CB-1 30 seconds
Rinse 30 seconds
Expose to light 40 W bulb for 5-10 seconds at 12 inches
Second Developer30-60 seconds
Fix 30-60 seconds
WashNormal paper washing time
Dry
First Developer: The original literature referring to this method of making
positive prints from slides is Kodak Publication G-14, "Direct Positive
Photography". You can probably get a copy of it by calling the Kodak Hot
Line
at 800-242-2424. In any case, that booklet specified a high contrast
developer
such as D-88. Dektol or D-72 dilited 1:1 can probably be substituted
successfully for D-88.
Rinses should be under running water, or at least two changes in the 30
seconds.
The bleach is modified Kodak Bleach R-9:
Water 800 mL
Potassium Dichromate9.5 g
Sodium Bisulfate 66 g
Water to make 1 L
Clear CB-1:
Sodium Sulfite 90 g
Water to make 1 L
Second Developer can be Dektol again. Or if you want a sepia toned print,
skip the light exposure and use Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 (Sodium Sulfide
20 g with water to make 1 L).
As with any positive process, the resultant density value is opposite from
ordinarily processed paper: More exposure = lighter print, less exposure
= darker print.
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