From: Scott Wainer (smwbmp@starpower.net)
Date: 01/30/03-06:15:36 PM Z
Hi Cor,
The reason for not providing concrete development times/film speeds in my
post is that I use many different films, formats, cameras, lenses, meters,
ect... To list all of the development times/film speeds for all the
combinations I use would require download times approaching infinity. An
example of what I mean is that with Ilford Delta 100 and a Canon A2 I use 6
different lenses, have 6 different EI ratings, and 6 different development
times for using Pyrocat at 1:1:100. Add to that my using a 4x5 camera with 3
lenses and a, soon to be, Mamiya 645 with 2 lenses and I already have 11 EI
ratings and development times (which vary widely) for just one film and one
developer dilution. Change to a 1:2:100 dilution, each EI rating and each
development time also changes. So you can see why I didn't list specifics.
As for starting points, I recommend looking at the times for PMK (see
www.digitaltruth.com ) and begin testing from there (see my testing method
outlined in my last post - below). After switching to Pyrocat and finally
getting a working method of testing (thanks again to Sandy and the list) I
am working through the process of figuring out all the EI ratings and
development times for each combination I use; currently I have 36 done.
A quick way, if it works for you, would be to use stand development
exclusively. That way you would not have to worry about "correct" times or
film speeds as much. The only drawback is that you do not have the control
you would have if you tested each combination.
My statement about what works for one person won't work for another means
that because my situation (cameras, lenses, films, formats, ect... ) is
different from yours, what works for me won't work for you (90+% of the
time).
Hoping this help,
Scott Wainer
smwbmp@starpower.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Breukel, C. (HKG)" <C.Breukel@lumc.nl>
To: "'alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca'"
<alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:37 AM
Subject: RE: Stand Development
> Scott,
>
> Thanks for your detailed post, but could you perhaps share the speeds of
the
> different films you have used in your setup (out of curiousity, and maybe
a
> starting point for own experimentations..)
>
> thanks,
>
> Cor
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Scott Wainer [mailto:smwbmp@starpower.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 11:46 PM
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: Stand Development
> >
> >
> > Sandy King wrote:
> >
> > > One of the main reasons I developed Pyrocat was to experiment with
> > > stand development so your comments are very interesting. But my work
> > > with stand development has been a really mixed bag. With roll film I
> > > have had really good success and have managed to make negatives that
> > > have really extraordinary apparent sharpness because of the
> > adjacency
> > > effect. However, developing this way is always something of a crap
> > > shoot because of 12 frames one or two or almost sure to be ruined by
> > > some type of uneven development. And sheet film haw been even more
> > > problematic.
> > >
> > > So, I would be very interested in hearing more of your specific
> > > working procedures with stand development.
> >
> >
> > Hi again Sandy,
> >
> > Currently my experience with Pyrocat is limited to 35 mm processed in
> > daylight tanks and 4x5's using Kodak hangers doing the ol'
> > dip-n-dunk. I
> > just ordered a Mamiya 645, so I will be testing 120's when the camera
> > arrives.
> >
> > As you might remember I was testing for EI ratings and normal
> > development
> > times a while ago and having a devil of a time with density
> > readings. You
> > and others recommended testing procedures outlined in the
> > BTZS book; I never
> > did get a copy of it - local sources can't get it - so i'll
> > have to get it
> > through the website. I decided on another way to test, I
> > found an 9 zone
> > scene and shot 3 rolls of each type of film (35mm) as follows:
> >
> > frames 1-7 : normal exposure
> > frames 8-14 : +1/2 stop
> > frames 15-21 : +1 stop
> > frames 22-28 : -1/2 stop
> > frames 29-35 : -1 stop
> >
> > I estimated development time for each type of film and developed
> > accordingly. If a roll looked thin or over-developed I increased or
> > decreased time accordingly for the next roll. When all rolls
> > were developed
> > I compared them on a lightbox, found the negs with the best
> > exposures from
> > each roll, and printed those exposures; all the while keeping detailed
> > notes. The exposures/development times that provided the best
> > shadow detail,
> > mid-tone tonalities, and highlight seperations became my standards.
> >
> > Where stand and semi-stand development (as I use them) comes
> > in is when I
> > have a very contrasty scene (8+ zones) like sunlit snow
> > against shaded wet,
> > black river rocks. For this I subjectively choose stand or semi-stand
> > depending upon the film type (currently Tech Pan, HEI, Pan
> > F+, Delta 100,
> > Delta 400, Delta 3200, Arista 125, Arista 400, and SFX) and
> > the look I want
> > in the final image. Each 36 exp roll (80sqin) uses 6 ml of
> > each A & B stock
> > solution. For semi-stand I dilute Pyrocat 1:1:400 in
> > distilled water for
> > twice normal development at 70F; agitate for the first 30
> > seconds and 10
> > seconds every 4 minutes. For stand I dilute 1:1:800 in
> > distilled water for
> > 90 minutes at 70F; agitate for the first 30 seconds - no
> > agitation for the
> > remainder of the time. I have not found any development problems (eg,
> > bromide-type drag ect...) with any of the above films; Tech
> > Pan is very
> > sensitive though - it likes to get really, really contrasty -
> > here I usually
> > do stand at 30-45 minutes (or less). I did notice that with
> > stand/semi-stand
> > the use of freshly made A & B solutions makes all the
> > difference; I mix new
> > developer if it is over a week old.
> >
> > I don't use stand or semi-stand for sheet film as I believe
> > the size of the
> > material plays a part in "uneven" development. With the
> > dip-n-dunk method, I
> > dilute 1:1:200 and agitate for 5 seconds every minute and
> > adjust the time to
> > control contrast. With normal development times between 10-14
> > minutes there
> > is plenty of room for expansion and contraction. I noticed that if I
> > increased the agitation to 10 seconds I started to get
> > excessive base fog.
> > Because of the size of the negative and the enlargement
> > (16x20 or 20x24) I
> > don't worry as much about the edge effects for visual
> > sharpness as I do with
> > 35mm (I have printed 35mm Tech Pan at 40x60 with no grain and
> > only slight
> > fuzz which I attribute to lens quality).
> >
> > I generally lose a number of images to over/under exposure on
> > each roll of
> > film but can't contribute them to development problems.
> >
> > I hope this helps you, but I learned long ago that what works
> > for one person
> > won't work for another.
> >
> > Scott Wainer
> > smwbmp@starpower.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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