From: Dchiap2 (dchiap2@msn.com)
Date: 07/02/03-12:27:08 PM Z
Any reason you can't blow-dry after coating, rather than waiting for it
to air dry?
Don Chiappinelli
dchiap@msn.com
-----Original Message-----
From: stwang1@bellsouth.net [mailto:stwang1@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 11:13 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: Re: A newcomer into the alt. process world...
Hi Loris,
Here are a few points that hopefully will be helpful:
PAPER: any paper that can withstand soaking can be used. Some cheap
papers actually print better
than "art" papers. So I would test almost any paper you can lay your
hands on, just to see what
happens.
BRUSHES: any soft brush will do. The kind they use to paint houses could
work quite well. You
want it to hold enough solution to brush well, and be soft enough so as
not to disturb the paper
too much. Since it's hard to clean it completely afterwards, you don't
want to use it for some other
process later.
NEGATIVES: with digital negatives being so easy and good, you may not
want to spend time
enlarging your negatives. Wait till you have the equipment to do it
digitally. Meanwhile, you may
want to make yourself 5x7 or 8x10 pinhole cameras in order to get
negatives large enough for
cyanotype.
And: make certain the coating is really dry before exposure. The coating
contains photographic
bleach that can damage your negative if not completely dry.
You also may want to do simple "photograms" first, by using leaves and
other objects as negatives,
laying them directly on the coated paper, till you get used to the
process before using your
precious negatives.
Also, when single coat of the chemicals works well enough, try giving it
a second coat after the
first coat is dry. Double coating will make the tones much richer.
Please let us know how it goes.
Sam Wang
>
> From: Loris Medici <lorism@tnn.net>
> Date: 2003/07/02 Wed AM 09:07:29 EDT
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: A newcomer into the alt. process world...
>
> I'm about to start making cyanotypes (waiting the hinged back contact
> printing frame on its way to me) and AFAIK, I'm the first one trying
> this in my area (Istanbul, Turkey).
>
> I will use negatives from my 4x5" pinhole camera (film: HP5+) and also
> plan to enlarge 35mm and 6x6 negatives (mostly HP5+ and FP4+) on lith
> film using the procedure described at the following documents:
> * http://216.195.4.24/alternativephotography/articles/art001.html
> * http://rmp.opusis.com/documents/reversal4.pdf
> Is there anybody who put this method in practice successfully? To what
> should a newcomer pay attention in order to get ideal enlarged
negatives
> for the cyanotype process? Can you please pass your experiences on
this
> issue?
>
> What kinds of paper should I use? In a shop near my house, I found a
> 190gsm acid free, optical brightener free rag watercolor paper (made
in
> Canada - don't remember the name/brand & mill) with a fairly smooth
> surface. Is 190gsm enough for making cyanotypes? (please note that I
> also plan to tone some of my cyanotypes).
>
> What tools other than hake brushes and glass rods can be used to apply
> the coating to the paper? (I don't know what a "foam brush" is - are
> watercolor/oil brushes OK?)
>
> Finally, what is your general suggestions and warnings to a newcomer?
I
> will be grateful to every bit of information you provide.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Loris Medici.
>
> P.S. I have "The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes"
> by Christopher James and "Coming into Focus: A Step-by-Step Guide to
> Alternative Photographic Printing Processes" by John Barnier (as the
> Editor)
>
>
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