From: Devra Goldberg (smspoll@yahoo.com)
Date: 07/02/03-03:54:39 PM Z
in some cases, if you leave the dryer on too hot or
too long, it will fog the emulsion. i've done ok
blow-drying cyanotypes on low heat sometimes,
however.
--- Dchiap2 <dchiap2@msn.com> wrote:
> Any reason you can't blow-dry after coating, rather
> than waiting for it
> to air dry?
>
> Don Chiappinelli
> dchiap@msn.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stwang1@bellsouth.net
> [mailto:stwang1@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 11:13 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: A newcomer into the alt. process
> world...
>
> Hi Loris,
>
> Here are a few points that hopefully will be
> helpful:
>
> PAPER: any paper that can withstand soaking can be
> used. Some cheap
> papers actually print better
> than "art" papers. So I would test almost any paper
> you can lay your
> hands on, just to see what
> happens.
>
> BRUSHES: any soft brush will do. The kind they use
> to paint houses could
> work quite well. You
> want it to hold enough solution to brush well, and
> be soft enough so as
> not to disturb the paper
> too much. Since it's hard to clean it completely
> afterwards, you don't
> want to use it for some other
> process later.
>
> NEGATIVES: with digital negatives being so easy and
> good, you may not
> want to spend time
> enlarging your negatives. Wait till you have the
> equipment to do it
> digitally. Meanwhile, you may
> want to make yourself 5x7 or 8x10 pinhole cameras in
> order to get
> negatives large enough for
> cyanotype.
>
> And: make certain the coating is really dry before
> exposure. The coating
> contains photographic
> bleach that can damage your negative if not
> completely dry.
>
> You also may want to do simple "photograms" first,
> by using leaves and
> other objects as negatives,
> laying them directly on the coated paper, till you
> get used to the
> process before using your
> precious negatives.
>
> Also, when single coat of the chemicals works well
> enough, try giving it
> a second coat after the
> first coat is dry. Double coating will make the
> tones much richer.
>
> Please let us know how it goes.
>
> Sam Wang
> >
> > From: Loris Medici <lorism@tnn.net>
> > Date: 2003/07/02 Wed AM 09:07:29 EDT
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: A newcomer into the alt. process world...
> >
> > I'm about to start making cyanotypes (waiting the
> hinged back contact
> > printing frame on its way to me) and AFAIK, I'm
> the first one trying
> > this in my area (Istanbul, Turkey).
> >
> > I will use negatives from my 4x5" pinhole camera
> (film: HP5+) and also
> > plan to enlarge 35mm and 6x6 negatives (mostly
> HP5+ and FP4+) on lith
> > film using the procedure described at the
> following documents:
> > *
>
http://216.195.4.24/alternativephotography/articles/art001.html
> > * http://rmp.opusis.com/documents/reversal4.pdf
> > Is there anybody who put this method in practice
> successfully? To what
> > should a newcomer pay attention in order to get
> ideal enlarged
> negatives
> > for the cyanotype process? Can you please pass
> your experiences on
> this
> > issue?
> >
> > What kinds of paper should I use? In a shop near
> my house, I found a
> > 190gsm acid free, optical brightener free rag
> watercolor paper (made
> in
> > Canada - don't remember the name/brand & mill)
> with a fairly smooth
> > surface. Is 190gsm enough for making cyanotypes?
> (please note that I
> > also plan to tone some of my cyanotypes).
> >
> > What tools other than hake brushes and glass rods
> can be used to apply
> > the coating to the paper? (I don't know what a
> "foam brush" is - are
> > watercolor/oil brushes OK?)
> >
> > Finally, what is your general suggestions and
> warnings to a newcomer?
> I
> > will be grateful to every bit of information you
> provide.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Loris Medici.
> >
> > P.S. I have "The Book of Alternative Photographic
> Processes"
> > by Christopher James and "Coming into Focus: A
> Step-by-Step Guide to
> > Alternative Photographic Printing Processes" by
> John Barnier (as the
> > Editor)
> >
> >
>
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