larry.roohr@comcast.net
Date: 07/17/03-11:30:05 AM Z
Joe,
I just mixed some up the other day for the first time, ran some film last nite.
Your description sounds like my catechol from Photographers Formulary. I used my
triple beam to get the tenths place measurements.
As far as the film goes, I ran a roll of fp4 and d3200 120 in a jobo tank on low
speed at 19C for 9 minutes with the 1:1:100 dilution. Took a quick look this
morning and scanned a frame of the d3200, they both looked pretty good and the
d3200 scanned surprisingly well as though the stain helped mask the grain for
scanning.
I think I like it.
Larry
> Today I got some Catechol to make some Pyrocat for the first time, and I
> had a couple of questions...
>
> What should Catechol look like? I got a pound from Artcraft Chemicals &
> it is a shade darker brown than say Starbucks' Mocha Frapuccino : )
> which seems consistent with what I have heard, but what i have not
> heard, is what to look for in the consistency of the granularity. Mine
> is a mixture of small, flat chips between a quarter & an eigth of an
> inch in diameter. There are also granules the size of brown sugar mixed
> throughout. I haven't tried to break the chips up and didn't know if
> this was a bad sign.
>
> Another question I have is whether or not it matters that I only have a
> scale that measures in half grams. Sandy's formula (a la unblinking eye)
> calls for .2g of potassium bromide; if I measure a half gram and
> separate 2/5 by eye, is that negligible? I am going to use metol instead
> of phenidone for Sol A, and the 10% sodium hydroxide in Sol B. Does this
> all sound peachy?
>
> The only other thing I am curious about is a general sense of what other
> users are using for developing times/routines & ISO ratings for HP5 &
> FP4+. I shoot both 120 & 4x5 in these films. I hand develop with a
> spiral tank for 120 & use a Jobo Expert 3010 by hand for 4x5. Are there
> special considerations when developing this way?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Joe
>
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