From: Sandy King (sanking@clemson.edu)
Date: 07/25/03-10:46:51 PM Z
Hi Arie,
If you go to http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Kallitype/kallitype.html
and follow the directions you will make good kallitypes.
Sandy King
>Hi, sorry for the long message, but I need to give all the info first.....
>
>I need to send this out to the list, because during the past week I've been
>on the phone to B&S almost everyday (this month's phone bill will be
>murder). Right now it seems I have both Dana and Kevin Sullivan stumped.
>
>First the background......the past few months I've been concentrating on Van
>Dijk Bruin prints to get back in to the swing of traditional printing.
>(they are relativly quick cheap and easy......kinda like me in my twentys)
>When I went to switch to Kallitypes I went and tested a number of papers
>with a Stoufers 21 step wedge so that I could dial every thing in. The
>papers that I tested were :
>
>Coventry Rag
>Rising Stonehenge
>Arches Platine
>Strathmore Bristol regular surface
>Cot 320
>
>They all had fogging in the highlights that would not clear. My process was
>to coat the paper and let it dry in complete darkness before exposure.
>After exposure it was developed for 5 minutes in B&S Kallitype Black
>developer, followed by a two minute rinse in running filtered water. This
>was follwed by a clearing bath of both EDTA and citric acid then another
>rinse, for the initial tests I did two batches one was toned in platinum the
>other was not. This was finished with a 5% fix and a proper wash.
>
>Initially I thought it was the lighting in the darkroom, so I changed it to
>even a dimmer light than what I had. Still the same. After speaking with
>Dana I tried his suggestion of processing a coated and dried sheet without
>exposure....still no clearing. I even tried his other suggestion of
>changing the amount of FeOx in the sensitizer....no go.
>
>The next day I spoke with Kevin, he said its the most fickle of all the
>processes (much like some old girlfriends years ago) and suggested hot
>developer and maybe a new coating rod (I use thick plexi tubing)....still
>the same. Though this time I punched the concentration of the clearing bath
>up to 7% citric acid and 3% EDTA....there was a slightly better result.
>Instead of being a dark beigey stain that appears as soon as the developer
>hits it, and hangs in till the end, this time it cleared a little.
>
>So the next day I was back on the phone with Kevin. We were left with both
>of us scratching our heads, with the only thing left to try was still a more
>concentrated citric acid solution. I tried it but there is still a
>stain/fog.
>
>So right now I'm waiting for new chemistry to start again from the begining.
>Either that or just listen to Kevin and jump to platinum...but I would
>still like to master the Kallitype and its range of colors.
>
>Has anyone had a similar experience? If so were you able to correct it and
>HOW!!!!!
>
>Thanks in advance
>Arie Knoops
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