From: Sandy King (sanking@clemson.edu)
Date: 07/25/03-11:12:16 PM Z
Just another thought. Maybe something is wrong with that developer.
In my experience after developing Stonhenge Rising in 20% Sodium
Citrate there is very little clearing required, perhaps no more than
2-4 minutes in a 3% citric acid bath.
Sandy King
>Hi Arie,
>
>
>If you go to http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Kallitype/kallitype.html
>and follow the directions you will make good kallitypes.
>
>Sandy King
>
>
>
>
>>Hi, sorry for the long message, but I need to give all the info first.....
>>
>>I need to send this out to the list, because during the past week I've been
>>on the phone to B&S almost everyday (this month's phone bill will be
>>murder). Right now it seems I have both Dana and Kevin Sullivan stumped.
>>
>>First the background......the past few months I've been concentrating on Van
>>Dijk Bruin prints to get back in to the swing of traditional printing.
>>(they are relativly quick cheap and easy......kinda like me in my twentys)
>>When I went to switch to Kallitypes I went and tested a number of papers
>>with a Stoufers 21 step wedge so that I could dial every thing in. The
>>papers that I tested were :
>>
>>Coventry Rag
>>Rising Stonehenge
>>Arches Platine
>>Strathmore Bristol regular surface
>>Cot 320
>>
>>They all had fogging in the highlights that would not clear. My process was
>>to coat the paper and let it dry in complete darkness before exposure.
>>After exposure it was developed for 5 minutes in B&S Kallitype Black
>>developer, followed by a two minute rinse in running filtered water. This
>>was follwed by a clearing bath of both EDTA and citric acid then another
>>rinse, for the initial tests I did two batches one was toned in platinum the
>>other was not. This was finished with a 5% fix and a proper wash.
>>
>>Initially I thought it was the lighting in the darkroom, so I changed it to
>>even a dimmer light than what I had. Still the same. After speaking with
>>Dana I tried his suggestion of processing a coated and dried sheet without
>>exposure....still no clearing. I even tried his other suggestion of
>>changing the amount of FeOx in the sensitizer....no go.
>>
>>The next day I spoke with Kevin, he said its the most fickle of all the
>>processes (much like some old girlfriends years ago) and suggested hot
>>developer and maybe a new coating rod (I use thick plexi tubing)....still
>>the same. Though this time I punched the concentration of the clearing bath
>>up to 7% citric acid and 3% EDTA....there was a slightly better result.
>>Instead of being a dark beigey stain that appears as soon as the developer
>>hits it, and hangs in till the end, this time it cleared a little.
>>
>>So the next day I was back on the phone with Kevin. We were left with both
>>of us scratching our heads, with the only thing left to try was still a more
>>concentrated citric acid solution. I tried it but there is still a
>>stain/fog.
>>
>>So right now I'm waiting for new chemistry to start again from the begining.
>>Either that or just listen to Kevin and jump to platinum...but I would
>>still like to master the Kallitype and its range of colors.
>>
>>Has anyone had a similar experience? If so were you able to correct it and
>>HOW!!!!!
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>Arie Knoops
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