stwang1@bellsouth.net
Date: 07/28/03-04:11:03 PM Z
Hi Darryl,
That really sounds exciting!
Could you add some dichromate into the mix? Sort of printing gum and cyanotype at the
same time?
Otherwise you might harden a layer of gelatin or gum on the glass first (using
formaldehyde, alum, or dichromate), then apply cyanotype.
Now, if you happen to over-expose, maybe you can try developing by dumping mulch on
it, sort of like Fresson?
Sam Wang
>
> From: Darryl Baird <dbaird@umflint.edu>
> Date: 2003/07/28 Mon PM 05:31:07 EDT
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Now for something completely different (from gum)
>
> Well not exactly different, but a switch in sensitizer... cyanotype in
> gum arabic.
>
> During a testing phase my wife Janet and I are conducting (for an artist
> book project), we decided to make transparent cyanotypes. Surfaces we
> tested include silk, vellum, hand-waxed papers, and glass. We've gotten
> more excited about glass than others, but vellum is easy to pull off and
> almost transparent enough for the project... a keeper certainly, but for
> later. Getting the cyanotypes onto the glass proved more problematic. So
> far, mixing cyano with gum arabic provided the best. most even coating
> and images. The problem lies with "developing" the image after exposure.
> The whole emulsion layer tends to wash (float) off during immersion in
> water.
>
> Any thoughts? How can I harden the gum or improve its "grip" on the
> glass surface? Could I lightly spray the image with water to removed
> unexposed cyano? The image looked really good according to janet... I
> was out getting some mulch wouldn't you know it.
>
> --Darryl Baird
>
>
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