Re: Liquitex

 I do use black as the first coat.I tend to regard black as a drawing colour
witch gives you the drawing line of the print. The colours are tone and
shading. I have tried various acrylic paints and the ones I recommended do
work. I have also used Liquitex basic and they have worked. Perhaps
different manufacturers use different additives which do not mix so well
with the basic egg and dichromate solution. I am not sure about
lightfastness values but the colours must be transparent or at least
semi-transparent . A sheet of yellow paper put on top of a sheet of cyan
paper are still sheets of yellow and cyan. A sheet of yellow transparent
piece of OHP film overlapping a sheet of cyan OHP film produces yellow,
cyan and green.. Please forgive me if you know all this basic stuff. Try
some experimenting because you may be able to get some good results from
colours in areas where I have failed.. It is a bit difficult at the
begingnning. Keep in touch. Hellena ---- Original Message -----
From: "Loris Medici" <mail@lorismedici.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Liquitex

> Thank you Hellena, your message was helpful.
>
> I can see that there's 292 Napthol Crimson with a
> better lightfastness rating. What can you say about
> it? Did you tried it? May I substitute Acra Violet
> with this one - just to add some more permanency to my
> prints? And, a) when do you print black and b) why? a)
> As black is not transparent I think you coat the black
> layer first is it right? b) What if I omit black (just
> like tricolor gum practitioners)?
>
> I purchased 8oz daler-rowney system 3 payne's gray and
> an additive to thin acrylic paint (on the bottle it
> says it's designed for airbrush or watercolor
> techniques - it's pebeo's acrylic diffuser). Will try
> to liquify the paint with this additive (to be able to
> measure with a syringe) and print mono this weekend.
> Will order liquitex (from the US) later...
>
> TIA,
> Loris.
>
> --- HNMM CLEARY <HNMM@hcleary.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> > If Pete is not around, I can offer some advice.
> > First there is no problem
> > at all in cutting Yupo on a rotary cutter. Secondly
> > as regards to pigment,
> > for tricoulour printing,to obtain warm tones I use
> > Galleria : Black, Naples
> > Yellow and Burnt Umber. For full colour Temperaprint
> > work I use a basic
> > palette of yellow, magenta, cyan and black. I use
> > Liquitex concentrated
> > acrylic artist colour medium viscosity : Ivory Black
> > 1008 244, Yellow Light
> > Hansa 1008 411, Phthalocyanine Blue 1008 316 and
> > Acra Violet1008 114. It is
> > important to use transparent colours rather than
> > opaque because only with
> > transparent colours will you get the build-up of
> > colours on top of each
> > other rather than masking each other out. I hope
> > that this has been of some
> > help. Hellena
>
>
Received on Thu Apr 15 07:07:13 2004