Thank you Hellena, your message was helpful.
I can see that there's 292 Napthol Crimson with a
better lightfastness rating. What can you say about
it? Did you tried it? May I substitute Acra Violet
with this one - just to add some more permanency to my
prints? And, a) when do you print black and b) why? a)
As black is not transparent I think you coat the black
layer first is it right? b) What if I omit black (just
like tricolor gum practitioners)?
I purchased 8oz daler-rowney system 3 payne's gray and
an additive to thin acrylic paint (on the bottle it
says it's designed for airbrush or watercolor
techniques - it's pebeo's acrylic diffuser). Will try
to liquify the paint with this additive (to be able to
measure with a syringe) and print mono this weekend.
Will order liquitex (from the US) later...
TIA,
Loris.
--- HNMM CLEARY <HNMM@hcleary.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> If Pete is not around, I can offer some advice.
> First there is no problem
> at all in cutting Yupo on a rotary cutter. Secondly
> as regards to pigment,
> for tricoulour printing,to obtain warm tones I use
> Galleria : Black, Naples
> Yellow and Burnt Umber. For full colour Temperaprint
> work I use a basic
> palette of yellow, magenta, cyan and black. I use
> Liquitex concentrated
> acrylic artist colour medium viscosity : Ivory Black
> 1008 244, Yellow Light
> Hansa 1008 411, Phthalocyanine Blue 1008 316 and
> Acra Violet1008 114. It is
> important to use transparent colours rather than
> opaque because only with
> transparent colours will you get the build-up of
> colours on top of each
> other rather than masking each other out. I hope
> that this has been of some
> help. Hellena
Received on Wed Apr 14 12:23:16 2004
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