Re: gum development

From: Judy Seigel ^lt;jseigel@panix.com>
Date: 12/06/04-01:51:12 PM Z
Message-id: <Pine.NEB.4.61.0412061437010.29981@panix1.panix.com>

Marek, I have never yet found a spray or abrasion that gave pure whites
without some loss of the fully photographic look (which IMO is one of the
kicks of those photographs in paint), or at best a texture grainer than I
like. However, I'm tempted to guarantee that LONG SOAK will do it. How
long are you developing? I found that a 24-hour soak will nearly ALWAYS
give paper white, barring some glitch along the way -- provided the
negative is dense enough of course. And you do have to expose a bit more
or lose everything.

That is, the veiling could be due to either too-soft negative or too long
exposure, aka fog. (Have you checked the negative density against a test
print from a 21-step?)

And one other thing -- what is your ratio of gum to dichromate? A higher
ratio of gum gives cleaner whites, tho again it needs more exposure.

Let us know !

Judy

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 mmatusz@pdq.net wrote:

> All,
> To take a break from all the RGB/CMY discussion I have a question to all
> experienced gum printers (and others that just like to experiment). I
> would like to develop my gums to a crisp white. I sieze my papers, so I
> don't get any stain, but there is usually a very thin vail of color left.
> I can rub it off with my finger, or a brush, but this is very crude. I
> have been using a shower head to clear the highlights, but that tends to
> leave a grainy look. I am wondering if others have tried other methods of
> "forced" development, like maybe sawdust, or even sand in the tray. Any
> chemical means to accomplish that?
> Marek Matusz
>
Received on Wed Dec 8 18:36:12 2004

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.8 : 01/03/05-09:29:43 AM Z CST