Seems a bit pointless to me anyway - why would you want to? To my way of
thinking, it's better to finish your print to your satisfaction at the
time. If you don't like what it turns out like, try again with a
different set of parameters maybe???
That’s just what I would do myself......
I'm having to edition prints as the gallery I sell through insists on
"good housekeeping". I'm mostly selling liquid silver emulsion prints
and they are more "editionable". I'm aiming at a professional profile
and reputation. That probably sounds a bit (as we say here) "up myself"
but I figure that I should start out as if I was going to be
collectable, then everyone will end up happy.
Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: Christina Z. Anderson [mailto:zphoto@uslink.net]
Sent: Thursday, 8 July 2004 12:46 p.m.
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: gum redevelopment
Hi all,
List has been somewhat quiet as of late, and since I'm not worried
about editioning until I get as famous as Ansel Adams (aw gees, ya
betcha as
Minnesotans say), I thought I'd broach a different subject.
How 'bout a poll to all you gum printers out there:
It is sometimes suggested that after a print has dried completely,
and
even after some time, you can resoak and redevelop it, if needs be.
Demachy said that the suggestion to do this is really a half truth,
as,
for one, the shadows are more soluble than the highlights in this state,
etc. etc.
My poll: how many of you use this technique? If so, are you using
warm water and/or an alkali like ammonia or bleach? And how long after
the
print has been dried (e.g.1 day vs 2 weeks or whatever)? How often do
you
use it/how good a suggestion do you consider it?
I personally find the suggestion promises more than it delivers.
It
wouldn't be my first suggestion of choice, which is why I am interested
in
hearing from those of you having success with this troubleshooting
method.
With ammonia (15ml to a liter of warm water on a month old print) it
does
solubilize the gum, but not as effectively as I would hope.
Chris
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