Well I DON'T recommend the use of lacquers. After having some rather long
conversations with the tech people at Sure Guard, the parent company of
McDonald Sprays widely used on photos for retouching, coloring,
"protecting", etc, I decided that I would no longer use the spray on my own
work, but that if someone insisted on using it despite my advise, What could
I say except, "Fire me if you want to, but..." I assume that the Henningsen
Studio in Taos still uses it. The tech people would make no statement as to
yellowing, milky quality, damage to paper over time, whatever that might put
them in a position to get sued. I have that posted on my rather out dated
web site under platinum printing.
All that being said, if applied to an off white or crème colored paper, I
didn't see too much to object to but neither was I there to subject the work
to hours of UV testing or any serious archival test for the paper. It does
work for what you asked. The studio that does/did it was in some circles
well thought of and has been referred to in historical books as a master
printer. ( Luis' book)
I think that I'd try the gum route to add a touch of gloss and depth. Part
of the depth is the change in relative density and that is where Jeffrey is
on to something with his back lighting suggestion and one reason that
several customers liked their work printed on Bien Fang. I did notice that
more than anything the paper becomes more translucent after spraying, much
like it is when wet.
Some papers do really well with Sprints print brightener as well. It gives
the paper a real pop when viewed under some lighting conditions and will
give an increased apparent range. Be careful not to over do it though as it
can become a milky haze in the dark areas.
It might also help to make a sandwich neg that has a very slight image of
you with your hair hanging down a little and a slight irregular quality to
the features. Just like when you are staring down at the print in the tray.
: ) It may not work for the others viewing your print, but at least for
you it can be a flash back to the darkroom. (also good with a shot of print
enhancer from Barbados)
I also think that Chris may have a good idea with just eggs.
Good luck
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sandy King [mailto:sanking@clemson.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 7:19 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: RE: Want more glow in Pt/Pd
>
> Eric,
>
> Thanks for the information about McDonald Spray. First, what is it? A
> shellac, wax, urethane, other?
>
>
> Would appreciate your thoughts on the archival considerations of this
> and any other type of over-coating that might be used to enhance glow
> and Dmax of Pt./Pd. prints. I would like to be able to change the
> appearance of my kallitype and Pt./Pd. prints, and I don't consider
> any of these types of operations "heresy" per say. However, based on
> having to re-do the bright work on sailboats I am inherently deeply
> suspicious of all claims made for UV protection for protections
> agents, including shellacs, varnishes, and modern acrylics and
> urethanes.
>
> Best,
>
> Sandy
>
>
>
>
> >Sandy, I have not been doing so for my own work, but I have in the past
> >used a spray lacquer to add a bit of that wet look back to the print. I
> >used the McDonald Spray by Sure Guard. It was the glossy spray but did
> not
> >spray for or to a completely glossy look. The spray was applied with a
> >spray gun rather than in individual cans so the actual technique would be
> >slightly different. If you were to use cans, you could spray about 12
> >inches away. Spray quickly enough not to build up the spray and make sure
> >you overlap the spray as you go from left to right. Two coats brought
> >enough depth without getting a glossy look to the prints. I never
> measured
> >the dmax increase. On the down side, the spray had a bad habit of coming
> >off in the mounting press and required a completely different set of
> boards
> >than the silver prints, but that was not tat big of a deal. I was able
> to
> >apply it heavily enough to look even but still able to lightly spot
> through
> >it if I happened to miss a small spot.
> >
> >
> >
> >Eric Neilsen Photography
> >4101 Commerce Street
> >Suite 9
> >Dallas, TX 75226
> >http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
> >http://ericneilsenphotography.com
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Sandy King [mailto:sanking@clemson.edu]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 11:22 PM
> >> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> >> Subject: Want more glow in Pt/Pd
> >>
> >>
> >> Wet Pt./Pd print (and VDBs and kallitypes as well) have a wonderful
> >> look when wet, but on dry down, even with appropriate exposure
> >> compensation, they look rather flat, especially when compared to
> >> prints with other processes that have some sheen, such as gums,
> >> carbons, etc.
> >>
> >> I have tried various things to recapture the *wet* look of Pt./Pd.
> >> prints, including spray coatings with Crystal Clear Acrylic, surface
> >> coating with Gamblin and Renaissance Wax, soaking in Liquitex Acrylic
> >> Gloss Medium, etc. but the results with these products, though they
> >> give a little snap to the print, fall short of what I would like to
> >> see.
> >>
> >>
> >> Any ideas for a more aggressive approach that might increase the glow
> >> and snap of dry Pt./Pd. prints? Has anyone tried soaking a completed
> >> print in gelatin, or coating it with another colloid such as gum
> >> arabic? Other suggestions?
> >>
> >> Sandy
Received on Wed Nov 10 21:12:49 2004
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