Re: Another Ziatype question

From: Clay ^lt;wcharmon@wt.net>
Date: 10/13/04-09:31:26 AM Z
Message-id: <006401c4b139$b75a7ef0$0ec809c0@peewee>

>
> Should I rinse the paper in plain water after treating in oxalic acid or
> just hang it to dry?

I just pass the paper through a tray filled with the oxalic acid solution
and then hang it to dry over my sink - to catch the drips.
>
> > Don suggested making sure you are getting adequate exposure.
> > I think that is
> > an excellent idea. Inadequate exposure can be a sneaky
> > problem because if you
> > print like me, you sometimes can concentrate on getting the
> > highlight density
> > right to the detriment of thinking much about the shadow densities.
>
> This is indeed a very important point. I can see no distinction between
> steps 1 and 2 in reflected light but can see the difference in the light
> table. Should I continue to expose even if the the tone distinction
> between 1 and 2 is not evident in reflected light - to the point that I
> can see no difference in the light table?

Unless you plan on viewing the print with back light, I would just use the
reflected light as your guide.
>
> > Another suggestion is to make sure you are using enough
> > sensitizer solution
> > to effectively coat the paper. This is the most common
>
> Well, probably I made this very mistake; I coated 22cm x 17cm area with
> a damp synthetic brush using just 1ml coating solution! I currently have
> only 25ml of LiPdCl solution (purchased to try/test - will order more
> asap) that's why I try to be conservative (more than the expense, it's
> the time that I have to wait for the package to arrive that makes me
> nervous)...

I normally use about 1.6-1.8ml total solution for a print this size. Rough
rule of thumb is 0.2ml/10square inches (metric: 43ml/square meter) with the
Magic Brush. More if you are using a hake brush.

Good luck!

Clay
Received on Wed Oct 13 09:31:55 2004

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