Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?

I also now recommend a 2:1:100 or 3:2:100 dilution for rotary
processing in Jobo. It definitely results in lower B+F with films
such as HP5+, TMAX-400 and JandC Classic 200 and 400.

Thanks a lot to Clay (and Michael Mutmansky also I believe) for their
experimentation with this, and for suggesting it to me.

Sandy

>I have been getting lower base+fog by using pcat HD at 2:1:100 and
>ensuring that the volume of developer is adequate. I use one liter
>for two sheets of 7x17 film in the jobo.
>
>Clay
>On Aug 16, 2005, at 10:07 PM, donald ciccone wrote:
>
>>Sandy, Cor, et al
>>
>>Thanks for all the comments/suggestions. I'm using HP5+ and
>>developing for 12 minutes at 72 degrees F using slowest JOBO speed.
>>Will try mixing the developer 1:1 and if that fails I'll reduce
>>film exposure. The negatives do not look over exposed but absent
>>any other explanation I defer to your expert judgment.
>>Thanks again.
>>
>>Don
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne D" <wdewitt@snip.net>
>>To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
>>Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 8:14 PM
>>Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
>>
>>
>>>Donald,
>>>
>>>You wouldn't be using a new batch of Tmax 100 with the Pyrocat would you?
>>>The new base is UV-blocking.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>Wayne
>>>
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "donald ciccone" <dsciccone@verizon.net>
>>>To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
>>>Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 11:54 PM
>>>Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
>>>
>>>
>>>>I am a novice alt process printer and have a question about Pyrocat-HD. I
>>>>have been using this developer for a while and obtain excellent results
>>>>
>>>when
>>>
>>>>making traditional silver prints (ie using enlarging paper). I use the
>>>>following working formula: Sol A 20 ml; Sol B 20 ml; 1 liter water. The
>>>>processing is done in a JOBO Expert drum with 5 minute pre-rinse. Using a
>>>>formula found in Keepers of the Light, I recently tried making a Vandyke
>>>>(brown) print but found my exposure times were very long (30 minutes or
>>>>more). The UV source is a bank of 18 inch blacklight bulbs ("350
>>>> Blacklight" by Sylvania). I have used the same printer with non-pyro
>>>>negatives and typically get exposure times for Vandyke prints in the 5-8
>>>>minute range. Ideally, I would like to get more reasonable exposure
>>>>
>>>times
>>>
>>>>for pyro-developed negatives as well (possibly 10-15 minutes). Any
>>>>suggestions how to achieve this or do these negatives simply require a
>>>>stronger/different UV source? The pyro negatives do not appear dense or
>>>>blocked up when viewed on a light box. Thanks for any assistance.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Don Ciccone
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
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Received on Wed Aug 17 15:47:56 2005